CETME Model L (.223) in the US

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  • Feb 28, 2013
    28,953
    So .223 CETMEs take AR mags instead of HK mags?

    Or is this just how y'all are choosing to build yours?
     

    wbw2123

    Active Member
    Nov 19, 2012
    905
    The cetme model L was designed to use STANAG mags which means any mag that meets NATO spec, like the metal AR-15 mag will work. Some polymer mags like gen 4 pmags may not work because the mag well is longer on the cetme L than an AR.
     

    jjones88

    Active Member
    Apr 4, 2013
    568
    Sykesville
    I started fitting my receiver to the stock last night. Did about an hours worth of filing. It's about halfway done. Going real slow to remove as little as possible so it's taking a bit longer then I'd like.

    Definitely going same route as you as to grafting onto the cocking tube/half mag well. Still waiting for my weldment though....:sad20:
     

    smdub

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Nov 14, 2012
    4,661
    MoCo
    Bertfish, a HK 33K is an easier build. Flats readily avail, less welding, everything is already 'worked out'. Will take a SBR stamp since a 94 isn't MD legal, but I suspect cost will still be less in the long run w/ the 33K. You can still make a 53 too. Cetme L is neat if you already have HKs and want something 'different' or are collecting Spanish firearms.

    BTW, I think IMBLITZVT was going to sell one of his kits if you still ant to jump on one.
     

    Bertfish

    Throw bread on me
    Mar 13, 2013
    17,685
    White Marsh, MD
    Bertfish, a HK 33K is an easier build. Flats readily avail, less welding, everything is already 'worked out'. Will take a SBR stamp since a 94 isn't MD legal, but I suspect cost will still be less in the long run w/ the 33K. You can still make a 53 too. Cetme L is neat if you already have HKs and want something 'different' or are collecting Spanish firearms.

    BTW, I think IMBLITZVT was going to sell one of his kits if you still ant to jump on one.

    I've just seen time and time again how many times as a young gun owner I've been late to the game and I'm afraid to be once again
     

    smdub

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Nov 14, 2012
    4,661
    MoCo

    Bertfish

    Throw bread on me
    Mar 13, 2013
    17,685
    White Marsh, MD
    Bertfish, a HK 33K is an easier build. Flats readily avail, less welding, everything is already 'worked out'. Will take a SBR stamp since a 94 isn't MD legal, but I suspect cost will still be less in the long run w/ the 33K. You can still make a 53 too. Cetme L is neat if you already have HKs and want something 'different' or are collecting Spanish firearms.

    BTW, I think IMBLITZVT was going to sell one of his kits if you still ant to jump on one.

    What are good sources for 33K kits/barrels/flats?
     

    smdub

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Nov 14, 2012
    4,661
    MoCo
    Robert RTG has nice flats w/ the little weld kit for $190 and a 33 parts kit for $600.
    http://www.robertrtg.com/store/pc/Receiver-and-Build-Parts-c117.htm

    I think all you need to add to that to finish a 33k is a RCM nitrided barrel ~$260 http://www.hkparts.net/shop/pc/HK-93-33-33K-53-Barrels-Trunions-Bayonet-c162.htm

    A 53 is a bit more expensive as a 53 parts kit is $1500+. Too many parts are unique to build it up out of a 33 kit. Of course 922r parts are required for *ANY* of these builds. You might come out cheaper building up a 53 from US made parts once you factor that into account.

    One downside to 5.56 HK builds are the mags. HK93 mags are ~$80 for a 40rd! The cetme L uses cheap/common stanag mags. SOMEONE makes a HK 5.56 receiver that uses stanag mags but I can't remember the name.
     

    smdub

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Nov 14, 2012
    4,661
    MoCo
    Sorry for getting this thread a little offtrack:o

    I think it was these guys, but they were oos for well over a year and now it looks like they no longer list them.

    http://black-market-parts.3dcartstores.com/

    I googled, and I was thinking of the special weapons and cohaire pistols. I se them turn up used from time to time so i knew someone made them. But googling turned up things I didn't know! There was a HarK (AR in the HK - get it?:rolleyes:) kit that adapted an AR mag into an HK magwell. The AR mag is smaller. That and a mag release that reaches in a little further in is all thats apparently needed.

    http://www.ar15.com/archive/topic.html?b=6&f=9&t=437585

    The factory PTR32 (7.62x39) does it that way too. Its a PTR91 (308) sized receiver w/ a magwell insert welded in to hold the smaller AK mag and catch the front mag tang. A rear paddle release is added to catch the rear mag tang.

    There are also adapters you can glue to an AR mag to convert it to HK93 style.

    http://www.hkportbuffer.com/product/ar15-magazine-converter.html

    Back to your scheduled programming... ;)
     

    wbw2123

    Active Member
    Nov 19, 2012
    905
    Glad you guys are getting cheap barrels! Green mountain makes great stuff.

    My L barrels are turned down RCM cold hammer forged hk33 barrels. I have to recrown them from bringing the tailstock down too tight.... oops.

    Started welding tonight. Welded in the rear lug and the front weldment. I used a piece of old copper flashing to protect the magazine. Started to clean up one side but still have to finish the other. Go easy on my welds, I'm still learning to tig.
     

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    wbw2123

    Active Member
    Nov 19, 2012
    905
    Getting close now. Had to cut and reweld the stub a second time because the welds shrunk just enough to hold the magazine in the well. Made a disconnector to get my 922r count down and reassembled the fcg with the block installed and the sear trip removed. I have to press the barrel back out and shim it to get the bolt gap I want; .018". Will re-press and pin the barrel, pin the front sight block, then final fit the elevation of the mag catch for best feeding. Once everything runs, I'll weld on the rear sight, clean all the welds and finish the cosmetics. Won't be able to get back to it for another week or so.
     

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    IMBLITZVT

    Ultimate Member
    Apr 20, 2009
    3,799
    Catonsville, MD
    Looks pretty good. Looking back on it, was there any point to bending the flat? Would it not be better to cut the flat in half then cut and weld the top on?

    I hope you have some way to video the first shots for us. Where do you shoot?
     

    wbw2123

    Active Member
    Nov 19, 2012
    905
    Looks pretty good. Looking back on it, was there any point to bending the flat? Would it not be better to cut the flat in half then cut and weld the top on?

    I hope you have some way to video the first shots for us. Where do you shoot?

    Thanks, it will look a lot better when it's cleaned up.

    Looking back, there are a few things I would do different, but I would definitely still bend the flat. Having it bent made it very easy to guarantee that the rails were both square and parallel with the trunnion. Without the top, there would be three degrees of freedom on each side to deal with. Now I can cut the top of and weld it back on with the trunnion and both weldments holding everything aligned. My understanding is that he has eliminated this issue with the gen2 flats.

    I will do a phone video for uplaod when I test it. I usually shoot at a friend's Farm when I can get out there.

    As for things I would do different:

    1. Adjust the seam for the welds to fall on a roll bead instead of through them but would definitely still keep the rail stub on the trunnion.
    2. Flatten and re-bend the rear of the magwell for better profile before bending the flat.
    3. Would only cut half the lug off the front of the grip frame to be half the width of a FA frame and notch the weldment to match the thinner lug. This would allow me to have the front lug pin in place. As it stands now, I would have to cut and epoxy the pin for a "clip and pin" type of original look. Not sure about how the ATF would feel about this.
    4. Leave extra material on the barrel flange so that I can trim to get the right bolt gap. As it is now, I have to add shims to get it to where I want it.
    5. It would be really nice to machine a piece of aluminum or copper to replace the mag and provide the proper dimensions in the magwell during welding.

    I'm sure there are others, but that's enough for now.
     

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