Quality Yet Inexpensive NON-METALLIC 7.62x39

iH8DemLibz · Feb 15, 2015

Just what the title says.

Looking for relatively inexpensive NON-METALLIC 7.62x39

Corrosive is fine as it won't hurt a damn thing. Any Opinions on the Yugoslavian M-67 surplus?

Need in-door range ammo.

Any favorite brands or favorite bulk vendors out there?

Much thanks in advance.

Dmacri25 · Feb 15, 2015

If your looking for brass cased, ppu always seems to be the cheapest at around .50 per round. Steel cased, but with all copper and lead bullet from red army standard is usually .35 per round.

protegeV · Feb 15, 2015

I've had good luck with fiocchi and ppu. U can find it for 40ish cpr sometimes. Right now it's around 50 though.

reverendbeer · Feb 15, 2015

iH8DemLibz said:
Just what the title says.

Looking for relatively inexpensive NON-METALLIC 7.62x39

Corrosive is fine as it won't hurt a damn thing.

Need in-door range ammo.

Any favorite brands or favorite bulk vendors out there?

Much thanks in advance.

Just checked this with magnet....good to go:
https://samcoglobal.com/Ammo-762x39.html

Also checked Red Army Std....also good.

iH8DemLibz · Feb 15, 2015

reverendbeer said:
Just checked this with magnet....good to go:
https://samcoglobal.com/Ammo-762x39.html

Also checked Red Army Std....also good.

That Yugo looks like the ticket.

E-mailed Samco my DL and C&R.

Thanks.

Dmacri25 · Feb 15, 2015

iH8DemLibz said:
That Yugo looks like the ticket.

E-mailed Samco my DL and C&R.

Thanks.

Yugo is perhaps the best brass case x39. Buy it in bulk when you can, it can be hard to find.

bkuether · Feb 15, 2015

iH8DemLibz said:
Just what the title says.

Looking for relatively inexpensive NON-METALLIC 7.62x39

Corrosive is fine as it won't hurt a damn thing. Any Opinions on the Yugoslavian M-67 surplus?

Are you ok with it because you don't mind attending to them with immediately cleaning or...... what is your thought here......

iH8DemLibz · Feb 15, 2015

Shooting it and cleaning it afterwards works well.

Never understood not shooting corrosive ammo in guns that were designed to shoot corrosive ammo.

.30 vs. .55 per round is a no brainer.

Buy cleaning supplies with the money that's left over.

Wasn't intending to start another corrosive vs. non-corrosive thread.

iH8DemLibz · Feb 22, 2015

Anyone looking for super clean x39 ammo on stripclips needs to look at this stuff.

Clean and shiny brass. Smooth feeding clips. Sealed primers.

Worth every penny.

amoebicmagician · Feb 22, 2015

wait, what? You mean non magnetic, right?

As for the Yugo brass M67 I shot the tightest group I have ever shot with an autoloader with that ammunition, it is excellent.

It was through an AK build I was doing with a nitrided virgin Yugo barrel with none of the hardware attached- just a nude barrel protruding out of the receiver.

I am told the plume of fire geysering out of the gas port was beautiful.

Vile Shadow · Feb 22, 2015

bkuether said:
Are you ok with it because you don't mind attending to them with immediately cleaning or...... what is your thought here......

Not in MY rifles.

protegeV · Feb 22, 2015

So just for the heck of it, let me ask. What happens if you don't immediately clean after using corrosive ammo?

Vile Shadow · Feb 22, 2015

Chad posted a good thread on that with pictures, that were NOT pretty. You MUST flush 'em out after you shoot corrosive ammo, and the sooner the better.

iH8DemLibz · Feb 22, 2015

amoebicmagician said:
wait, what? You mean non magnetic, right?

As for the Yugo brass M67 I shot the tightest group I have ever shot with an autoloader with that ammunition, it is excellent.

It was through an AK build I was doing with a nitrided virgin Yugo barrel with none of the hardware attached- just a nude barrel protruding out of the receiver.

I am told the plume of fire geysering out of the gas port was beautiful.

Yes! Thank you. Non-magnetic bullets.

iH8DemLibz · Feb 22, 2015

protegeV said:
So just for the heck of it, let me ask. What happens if you don't immediately clean after using corrosive ammo?

Your firearm will dissolve into a gooey pool of red iron oxide in the time it takes to go from the range to your home.

At least that's what I've heard.

I prefer to clean them when I get home, but a day or two has gone by in the past with no ill effect.

Vile Shadow · Feb 22, 2015

In the thread I couldn't find, the gun in question was even corroded under the muzzle brake. Gotta clean 'em EVERYWHERE.

The scary thing to me is at what point can you assume you've flushed out all the bad stuff?

iH8DemLibz · Feb 22, 2015

Sling Blade said:
In the thread I couldn't find, the gun in question was even corroded under the muzzle brake. Gotta clean 'em EVERYWHERE.

The scary thing to me is at what point can you assume you've flushed out all the bad stuff?

Here's my take on it.

These surplus guns have been digesting this corrosive ammo since the guns were made. 50 plus years.

I'm sure the firearms weren't cleaned all spic n span before being put away.

They are still in remarkably good condition because they were designed to use this ammo.

This is one of those debates that will never end. Just like the .45 is a much mobetta round debate.

I think the humidity level has a lot to do with accelerating the problems. Just like black powder being hygroscopic.

clandestine · Feb 23, 2015

My take is the complete opposite of ihatethemlibs, and it usually is.

Ever consider the "white glove" inspection? It was not invented because of the M16. Soldiers, Marines, and Sailors Firearms were expected to be cleaned before being lubricated before being placed into storage. The thorough cleaning makes the GAUGING process more efficient as the Armorer does not have to re-clean before using the gauges. The cleaning also ensured the firearm wouldn't corrode once stowed, assuming it has adequate protectant applied before storage. Surplus Bore Cleaners were designed to deal with the corrosive properties of corrosive ammunition.

In cases where a Soldier, Marine, or Sailor didnt do their job and a weapon was damaged by corrosion the Govt just replaces the weapon. Is that the mentality of a collector or shooter that cherishes their firearm? Especially truly collectible ones that cant be replaced? :sad20:

Clean the firearm properly if you use corrosive ammo.

Here is my take on it. http://www.scotts-gunsmithing.com/f-a-q/gunsmith-related-f-a-q/corrosive-ammunition-cleaning-tips/

Abulg1972 · Feb 23, 2015

I shoot corrosive ammo in bolt actions, but never in a semi-autos just because I can't be sure that I've adequately cleaned the gas system and don't want to take a chance. To me, it's worth the $.20 per round for non-corrosive. I know that people are all over the place on this, and no one is "right". Do whatever you feel comfortable with.

iH8DemLibz · Feb 23, 2015

Just got back from FreeState after shooting the corrosive and gun dissolving Yugoslavian M67 SKS ammo.

Here are some pictures just as it looks after shooting. Covered in crud, soot, primer sealant, and all other forms of firearm damaging salts and chemicals.

The firearm is reassembled and will not be touched or cleaned for a period of two weeks. At which time, I will take a second series of pictures and we can all compare notes.

What better way to put your money where your mouth is than with pictures. I am prepared to stand corrected if my SKS turns into an unusable chunk of red iron oxide.

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