GM tech or military mechanic with 6.2 diesel knowledge?

trbon8r · Aug 7, 2014

Corporal Doug said:
Haha they were hit or miss. I would get an absolute beast motor sometimes, other times it would spin a bearing or leak oil once started.

The newer models had the 6.5 turbo which was better for the up armor kits. A stock 6.2 from a military vehicle is not a bad engine either. The CUCV comes in various forms and have these same motors, I'm assuming that's what you have? Ish like a K5 blazer with a diesel, or a pickup truck Silverado.

Yeah it's the same motor as a CUCV. 91 Suburban (last year for the old square body solid axle trucks).

I called a local shop today and asked about a price for a restoration. The guy said it would be at least $60k. :lol2:

I get that it takes a lot of time to restore something like this, but come on. Some of these guys need to get over themselves. They aren't painting the Mona Lisa.

I'm figuring WAY on the high side here with all work being done at shop rates:

Rebuilt 6.2 which is a cheap motor to rebuild. $5k installed.
Rebuilt 700r trans $2.5k
Rebuilt front end (ball joints, tie rods, bearings, bushings) $1.5k
Paint $6k
Interior $4k
AC components a $1k
Miscellaneous parts pieces, trim, stuff I forgot $10k

That is $30k with everything figured WAY WAY towards the high side with some gotchas built into the budget, and with me doing nothing more than handing over the keys.

Name Taken · Aug 7, 2014

When a shop gives an unrealistic price it's not because that's what it's going to cost it's because they don't want to do it.

trbon8r · Aug 7, 2014

Name Taken said:
When a shop gives an unrealistic price it's not because that's what it's going to cost it's because they don't want to do it.

I suppose Barrack Obama's economy must be better than I thought. If there are enough rich old men out there to roll in $60k in cash in a wheelbarrow and dump it on the floor to fix up the car of their dreams, things must be ok. :rolleyes:

I wouldn't spend that much on a classic Corvette, much less a Suburban. Watch the Barrett Jackson auction. Even a well done restored Corvette or muscle car only fetches maybe 40 or 50 thousand unless it is an incredibly rare or unusual variant, and I'm not looking for a restoration done to anywhere near those standards. I just want a good daily driver with cheap , easy to find parts that looks like it did in '91.

Name Taken · Aug 7, 2014

trbon8r said:
I suppose Barrack Obama's economy must be better than I thought. If there are enough rich old men out there to roll in $60k in cash in a wheelbarrow and dump it on the floor to fix up the car of their dreams, things must be ok. I wouldn't spend that much on a classic Corvette, much less a Suburban.

I'm not saying if it's right or wrong or if it's even what happened. Just from my personal experiences have been.

I've sat next to several independent mechanics and contractors who routinely price themselves out of jobs because they do not want to do them. If the person is willing to pay their high rate they will suck it up.

And I think this has little to do with the economy. When I bought my house in the "low of the low" I had to pull teeth to find someone willing to come out and replace my garage door. Got offers and when I'd call them to set up the job they would never call back or just didn't show up. Even now finding a good general contractor that's going to show up, do the job as agreed to, and not over charge is hard to come by.

trbon8r · Aug 7, 2014

Name Taken said:
I'm not saying if it's right or wrong or if it's even what happened. Just from my personal experiences have been.

I've sat next to several independent mechanics and contractors who routinely price themselves out of jobs because they do not want to do them. If the person is willing to pay their high rate they will suck it up.

And I think this has little to do with the economy. When I bought my house in the "low of the low" I had to pull teeth to find someone willing to come out and replace my garage door. Got offers and when I'd call them to set up the job they would never call back or just didn't show up. Even now finding a good general contractor that's going to show up, do the job as agreed to, and not over charge is hard to come by.

Yeah I hear you when it comes to people not wanting to work. If I can find a way to take down a part of the fence and get this truck under a tent in the back yard where I actually have room to work on it, I may just suck it up and fix the truck myself. Seems like no one wants to take my money to work so I may have to do it myself.

Corporal Doug · Aug 8, 2014

trbon8r said:
Yeah I hear you when it comes to people not wanting to work. If I can find a way to take down a part of the fence and get this truck under a tent in the back yard where I actually have room to work on it, I may just suck it up and fix the truck myself. Seems like no one wants to take my money to work so I may have to do it myself.

I'll gladly help you with a restoration. I know my way around the internals of those vehicles especially the engine.

trbon8r · Aug 8, 2014

Hey Doug,

PM sent.

U.S.SFC_RET · Aug 25, 2014

I wish that I had a dollar for every 6.2 and 6.5 I ever worked on. Most of it is easy. As a matter of fact You can advance the timing just little bit.
There should be a starter shim and if you are missing it chances your starter will eat up the flywheel.
Oil leaks
1. Oil filter hoses coming from and to the oil filter housing.
2. Crank case deregulator valve (CDR valve) for short. Remove, clean and reinstall. This should be done first before replacing the rear main seal. if the CDR valve is clogged the crankcase will build up pressure.
3. Engine oil pan, retorque the oil pan.
4. Valve covers, retorque those.

If you check those components out your oil leaks should stop.

Use a diesel grade oil.

trbon8r · Aug 27, 2014

U.S.SFC_RET said:
I wish that I had a dollar for every 6.2 and 6.5 I ever worked on. Most of it is easy. As a matter of fact You can advance the timing just little bit.
There should be a starter shim and if you are missing it chances your starter will eat up the flywheel.
Oil leaks
1. Oil filter hoses coming from and to the oil filter housing.
2. Crank case deregulator valve (CDR valve) for short. Remove, clean and reinstall. This should be done first before replacing the rear main seal. if the CDR valve is clogged the crankcase will build up pressure.
3. Engine oil pan, retorque the oil pan.
4. Valve covers, retorque those.

If you check those components out your oil leaks should stop.

Use a diesel grade oil.

Thanks for the info!

trbon8r · Sep 21, 2014

The new heart transplant is here.

. The data sheet shows 550 compression on six of the 8 cylinders with 545 being the lowest on the remaining 2. Oil pressure was 55 pounds at idle. Now I need to figure out if the deeper HMMVW oil pan will clear the front crossmember and suspension. I just may have to install the 6" lift before putting the engine in. What a shame.

Corporal Doug · Sep 21, 2014

trbon8r said:
The new heart transplant is here. . The data sheet shows 550 compression on six of the 8 cylinders with 545 being the lowest on the remaining 2. Oil pressure was 55 pounds at idle. Now I need to figure out if the deeper HMMVW oil pan will clear the front crossmember and suspension. I just may have to install the 6" lift before putting the engine in. What a shame.

Looks like a jasper motor. Specs sounds pretty solid though! Make sure all the freeze pugs are in place too.

GM tech or military mechanic with 6.2 diesel knowledge?

The #1 community for Gun Owners of the Northeast

Member Benefits:

trbon8r

Ultimate Member

Name Taken

Ultimate Member

trbon8r

Ultimate Member

Name Taken

Ultimate Member

trbon8r

Ultimate Member

Corporal Doug

USMC

trbon8r

Ultimate Member

U.S.SFC_RET

Ultimate Member

trbon8r

Ultimate Member

trbon8r

Ultimate Member

Attachments

Corporal Doug

USMC

Users who are viewing this thread

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Latest threads

Forum statistics

Share this page