Need Advice on wood re/finish

why2kmax · Jan 29, 2015

Ok guys, a lot of you have extensive experience with finishing wood and refinishing stocks so I could use some help.

I have a new Polish laminated wood AK stock set. Id like to protect the wood and would like to really make the grain standout/pop much like the flame patterns in birch you sometimes see, or the occasional laminate Mosin etc. BUT Im unsure what to put on it and I dont want to screw it up. Hell Id just be happy if it looks good.

I thought about giving it some color first but unsure if I should or just leave it alone. What should I use? I think Shellac is out. I dont like that so what does that leave me with?

Varnish?
Boiled Linseed oil?
Tung oil
Birchwood Casey tru-oil

Is there any prep to the wood I should do beforehand?

Thanks for any and all help

Jeff

smoothebore · Jan 29, 2015

Of course the possibilities are endless, but the best advice I know is check out
www.surplusrifleforum.com ,for stickies by Candyman, in the Stock Care & Replacement Stock Forum. You'll find lots of great tutorials.

rouchna · Jan 29, 2015

I don't have much experience but had great luck using Tung oil. Here is the 870 furniture I refinished using tung oil.

iH8DemLibz · Jan 29, 2015

Watco brand Danish Oil.

Machodoc · Jan 29, 2015

A lot depends upon whether your focus is on having it look original, or having it look shiny and new.

why2kmax · Jan 30, 2015

Machodoc said:
A lot depends upon whether your focus is on having it look original, or having it look shiny and new.

I dont want a pimp shined plastic-wood looking stock. Id rather a flatter oiled look I think but something that wont lose the contrast of the light/dark sections of the wood, as in not something that will darken the wood to the extent that none of the grain or pattern is no longer visible.

something like this

outrider58 · Jan 30, 2015

Can't go wrong with tongue oil. Put it on nice and thick , let it soak in. Depending on how you buff it out (by hand or machine), will determine the sheen. You might try water popping it first to get good oil penetration. Wipe it down with a wet rag and let it dry over night. It will open up the grain to the oil.

IMBLITZVT · Jan 30, 2015

Boiled Linseed oil is what is most often used on military guns. I always suggest you keep with that. You can add lots of it if you like. It will not give you that "coated" look like Poly or some of the other oils but it will look correct for the gun. Frankly and not to insult but AK wood is not what one considers high end. Its also not a gun that you want a "slick" feel to the wood. So I suggest Linseed oil. Its the

I would also suggest one thing. On the front grip. That metal stud tends to heat up fast and burn the crap out of your finger. I would center punch it and drill it back so there is a recess there and your finger does not touch it. Then oil it.

Machodoc · Jan 30, 2015

IMBLITZVT said:
Boiled Linseed oil is what is most often used on military guns. I always suggest you keep with that. You can add lots of it if you like. It will not give you that "coated" look like Poly or some of the other oils but it will look correct for the gun. Frankly and not to insult but AK wood is not what one considers high end. Its also not a gun that you want a "slick" feel to the wood. So I suggest Linseed oil.

^^^ This.

There are lots of things that you can do to increase the contrast between softer and harder parts of the wood (the grain), and even more that you can do to make that contrast pop out by using coatings on the wood. The problem is that you start making the gun look less and less like a military firearm, and more like a piece of household furniture. I tend to keep 'em honest ... and that (in most cases) entails a good cleaning, perhaps some careful treatment of modern dings (not trying to get out all the dents--just blending in new chips, etc.), and then sealing with BLO, or touching up with whatever the original finish was.

iH8DemLibz · Jan 30, 2015

An alcohol based stain called Trans-Tint will make that grain POP.

why2kmax · Jan 31, 2015

Thanks for all the advice and suggestions!

mroe21877 · Feb 1, 2015

Be careful with brands that call their oil a finish. It usually isn't really pure tung or blo. However there is a fantastic product called tried and true. Amazing. Look up the work Chris becks vortex produces on fine woodworking. He uses tried and true that's how I found it. Before my interest in firearms I was way into woodworking, 18th century reproductions. Tried and true products are all natural and the more you buff the better it'll look. You end up with a finished but very natural look and feel. Trick is to use a very little and work it in, then work it in more.

mroe21877 · Feb 1, 2015

Sorry name is Chris becksvort. Stoopid phone

Reptile · Mar 27, 2015

IMBLITZVT said:
Boiled Linseed oil is what is most often used on military guns. I always suggest you keep with that. You can add lots of it if you like. It will not give you that "coated" look like Poly or some of the other oils but it will look correct for the gun. Frankly and not to insult but AK wood is not what one considers high end. Its also not a gun that you want a "slick" feel to the wood. So I suggest Linseed oil. Its the

I would also suggest one thing. On the front grip. That metal stud tends to heat up fast and burn the crap out of your finger. I would center punch it and drill it back so there is a recess there and your finger does not touch it. Then oil it.

I've got a mid-1942 Garand and a 1919 model 1903 Springfield that I've bought new stocks and hand guards for. I'm keeping the originals for their historic value, but will use the new ones when I'm shooting them. I've begun the boiled linseed oil process and am in no particular hurry to "git 'er done" so how many applications of the BLO do you recommend?

Orlando · Mar 28, 2015

If you really want to make the grain pop and dont care about a Military finish give Teak Oil a try. It gives a very smooth ,silky semi gloss finish and very water resistant

outrider58 · Mar 28, 2015

iH8DemLibz said:
Watco brand Danish Oil.

A little thicker than tongue oil. Use burlap to work it in/buff it out the old school way.

Vile Shadow · Apr 1, 2015

why2kmax said:
Ok guys, a lot of you have extensive experience with finishing wood and refinishing stocks so I could use some help.

I have a new Polish laminated wood AK stock set. Id like to protect the wood and would like to really make the grain standout/pop much like the flame patterns in birch you sometimes see, or the occasional laminate Mosin etc. BUT Im unsure what to put on it and I dont want to screw it up. Hell Id just be happy if it looks good.

I thought about giving it some color first but unsure if I should or just leave it alone. What should I use? I think Shellac is out. I dont like that so what does that leave me with?

Varnish?
Boiled Linseed oil?
Tung oil
Birchwood Casey tru-oil

Is there any prep to the wood I should do beforehand?

Thanks for any and all help

Jeff

My WASR came with wood like that. I used red oak stain with about 5 coats of shellac.

I know you said you don't like it, but here's how it turned out.

http://www.mdshooters.com/showpost.php?p=2660048&postcount=29

fred333 · Apr 3, 2015

Reptile said:
I've begun the boiled linseed oil process and am in no particular hurry to "git 'er done" so how many applications of the BLO do you recommend?

This is what I did with Springy's (Smith-Corona A3) NOS stock:
Light sand entire stock to open pores. Wipe down with denatured alcohol to remove any remaining soil and oils.
Mix two parts mineral spirits to one part BLO and apply liberally.
Let dry for ~10 minutes, then, wipe off excess.
Repeat every day for a week.
Repeat once/week for a month, but leave to air dry for three days after each application.
Repeat once/month for a year.
Done.

why2kmax · Apr 3, 2015

Sling Blade said:
My WASR came with wood like that. I used red oak stain with about 5 coats of shellac.

I know you said you don't like it, but here's how it turned out.

http://www.mdshooters.com/showpost.php?p=2660048&postcount=29

Looks good Sling. I ended up using Toms Military Gun Stock Wax. Kept the natural finish, made it a bit darker and will protect it. Pics when I get it back from Duffys. Its going on a milled arsenal SLR-95 which has the crazy clinton era ban stock so some machining had to be involved to be able to put a normal stock on it.

Vile Shadow · Apr 3, 2015

why2kmax said:
Looks good Sling.

Thank you.

I ended up using Toms Military Gun Stock Wax. Kept the natural finish, made it a bit darker and will protect it. Pics when I get it back from Duffys. Its going on a milled arsenal SLR-95 which has the crazy clinton era ban stock so some machining had to be involved to be able to put a normal stock on it.

I hate those stocks. I'd love to replace the one on my brother's MAK-90.

Can't wait to see yours when you git 'er dun. :thumbsup:

Need Advice on wood re/finish

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