10/22 question

Overboost44 · Mar 10, 2015

If you go to lighten the bolt, just start with some small holes around the circumference. I am thinking like 3/32" holes, but make sure it takes weight off of each side (every 90 degrees)... think flywheel. If it helps, make them bigger or drill more small ones. IANAGunsmith.

Magnumite · Mar 10, 2015

Lightening the bolt probaly will not hinder reward thrust. Where the momentum will be missed is forward travel to strip and chamber a round. Given a decent recoil spring things look promising.

The reason for the hammer mod is to allow faster movement to the rear. When the bolt is back far enough, the cocking surface against the unground part of the hammer will be a nonissue, the bolt momentum will be great enough to allow rearward bolt travel.

Good luck! Looking forward to hearing more

johnnyb2 · Mar 28, 2015

There are several video's on U Tube ablout shaving weight and lightening the bolt on the 10-22 in non critical area's. Try looking at those also. It was awhile ago that I saw them, but pretty nice work was done.

j_h_smith · Mar 28, 2015

johnnyb2 said:
There are several video's on U Tube ablout shaving weight and lightening the bolt on the 10-22 in non critical area's. Try looking at those also. It was awhile ago that I saw them, but pretty nice work was done.

I've got a bolt already laid out for this job. Life gets in the way of your hobbies some times. I will get back to my project soon. I know I can make it work, it will take some playing around before it goes bang, bang, bang.

ponypeddler87 · Mar 28, 2015

I myself was wondering if this was possible. I am waiting on my sparrow before I can start to make strides towards this

j_h_smith · May 13, 2015

Well folks, I am at a loss of how to lighten the bolt on my 10/22. I have 2 factory bolts and I can't put a nick into the bolts, much less drill into them.

I have used titanium and cobalt drill bits, ranging from 1/16" to 1/8", I have also used a 1/8" end mill on my little bench top mill. Nothing seems to want to do anything. I have slowed down my drill press to 240 rpm, which is the slowest it can be adjusted. Same thing with the mill, it is operating as slow as it can.

Does anyone have an idea as to how I can drill into the bolt? I am at a loss. I tried to use a punch on the bolt and the bolt laughs at that too.

Anyone know what kind of steel these bolts are made from?

HELP!!!

lx1x · May 13, 2015

j_h_smith said:
Well folks, I am at a loss of how to lighten the bolt on my 10/22. I have 2 factory bolts and I can't put a nick into the bolts, much less drill into them.

I have used titanium and cobalt drill bits, ranging from 1/16" to 1/8", I have also used a 1/8" end mill on my little bench top mill. Nothing seems to want to do anything. I have slowed down my drill press to 240 rpm, which is the slowest it can be adjusted. Same thing with the mill, it is operating as slow as it can.

Does anyone have an idea as to how I can drill into the bolt? I am at a loss. I tried to use a punch on the bolt and the bolt laughs at that too.

Anyone know what kind of steel these bolts are made from?

HELP!!!

Tried cryptonite drill? Lol

j_h_smith · May 13, 2015

lx1x said:
Tried cryptonite drill? Lol

If you can find me one, I'll gladly use it.

BradMacc82 · May 13, 2015

tungsten carbide, if that won't do it - then take the hint.

ETA: Sorry, carbide tipped is what I meant.

j_h_smith · May 13, 2015

BradMacc82 said:
tungsten carbide, if that won't do it - then take the hint.

Where do I find these? Any idea?

Thanks!

BradMacc82 · May 13, 2015

http://drillsandcutters.com/end-mills/

http://www.wlfuller.com/html/drills_for_hardened_steel.html

Grainger as well - http://www.grainger.com/category/carbide-end-mills/machine-cutting-tools/machining/ecatalog/N-cf7

Russ D · May 13, 2015

Have you thought about tuning the magazine so the rounds strip more smoothly?

PapiBarcelona · May 13, 2015

Slow RPM and small diameter tools, crank the RPM way up, 240 is too slow for that small a drill thats probably dull also on a weak hand feeding drill press

If you had a center drill for each hole before you ran the drill I bet you could get those drills to cut, the flank is probably too dull to attempt to push into whatever steal

If you ever buy drills, go for 130 degree or more, less push than standard 118 degree

j_h_smith · May 14, 2015

PapiBarcelona said:
Slow RPM and small diameter tools, crank the RPM way up, 240 is too slow for that small a drill thats probably dull also on a weak hand feeding drill press

If you had a center drill for each hole before you ran the drill I bet you could get those drills to cut, the flank is probably too dull to attempt to push into whatever steal

If you ever buy drills, go for 130 degree or more, less push than standard 118 degree

I would be afraid to turn up the RPMs too high for fear of burning up the bit, but I did turn it up to 480 RPM. The drill bits were just bought today, so they are as sharp as the factory makes them. These bits are made for drilling into stainless steel and hardened steel.

I got a little dimple started by using a 1/4" drill bit. The small bits were not doing anything, so I thought I'd try a larger bit. Something happened but it wasn't that productive.

j_h_smith · May 14, 2015

Russ D said:
Have you thought about tuning the magazine so the rounds strip more smoothly?

Since I have only used 3 mags, I did a quick tune up on the mags. They are about as good as I can. I really do believe it's more the bolt can't overcome the hammer strut spring. The bolt travels back like butter until it comes into contact with the hammer strut spring.

I have cut off about 1/8" of this spring and it now extracts the fired case, but it doesn't feed the new round. I don't know if I want to cut off anymore, or I may get a few failure to fire. I may get out the belt sander and take off a little more. I can always buy another spring if the rifle become unreliable.

Thanks again everyone.

PapiBarcelona · May 14, 2015

I doubt you'd burn it up, try some cutting lube of something you have handy

I'd run that 1/8th drill at about 500 in a drill press to see where I'm at. You could have dulled it running them too slow since they aren't cutting, not really sure. As long as that small endmill was center cutting it should have been wound out pretty high

I'd guess even the cheapest hardware store drills are mostly high speed steel, going to be tough finding a steal on gun parts that harder than that IMO.

j_h_smith · May 14, 2015

PapiBarcelona said:
I doubt you'd burn it up, try some cutting lube of something you have handy

I'd run that 1/8th drill at about 500 in a drill press to see where I'm at. You could have dulled it running them too slow since they aren't cutting, not really sure. As long as that small endmill was center cutting it should have been wound out pretty high

I'd guess even the cheapest hardware store drills are mostly high speed steel, going to be tough finding a steal on gun parts that harder than that IMO.

I think I found something harder than high speed steel on a gun. This bolt is much harder than the cobalt bits at any speed. I have played with this bolt using a 1/16 bit, a 1/8 bit and a 1/4" bit and nothing is putting much of a dent in this bolt. I have used cutting oil and drilling grease, ran bits from 240 rpm, to 990 rpm. I have tried to center punch the bolt and I can't leave a mark.

My end mills, are just cheap ones that come in the kits, that can cut mild steel, but not this stuff.

Both of these bolts were bought from 3rd parties, so I don't have any history as to how old they are, I understand that the older bolts are much harder than the new stuff, but I don't know if that's true or not.

I'll find something to work or I'll just take it to a shop and have them do the work.

Thanks!

Doctor_M · May 14, 2015

Best of luck, oh Wizard of Quite! Keep at it... sounds like you are on the verge.

Mark75H · May 14, 2015

Its not always about rpm

Cutting speed is actually about the tip speed of the outer part of the tool (on a drill or vertical mill). The smaller diameter of the tool, the slower the cutting operation is at a certain rpm, because the cutting surface is moving less mph, fps (or whatever speed measurement you like).

Rough simplification: A 1mm tool's OD travels at 3.14mm per turn, a 2mm tool's OD turns 6.28mm per turn. To run at the same OD cutting speed in mm, the 2mm tool has to turn half as many rpm.

Real machinists, feel free to correct me if I have mis-stated etc

Mark75H · May 14, 2015

PapiBarcelona said:
I'd guess even the cheapest hardware store drills are mostly high speed steel, going to be tough finding a steal on gun parts that harder than that IMO.

Even better is Harbor Freight's awesome titanium nitride coated bits. If you are not worried about them being precisely straight, I find them to be amazingly strong and sharp for the incredibly low price.

For hardness, I've had lots of bad luck with hardware store bits; even some "brand name" bits.

10/22 question

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