Bolt-Action Cleaning

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  • Madcap

    Everybody Loves Mad!
    Nov 5, 2013
    19
    Hello Everyone!

    I've got a few questions about cleaning a bolt-action rifle. I bought a 1903a3 off a shooter here. It is my first rifle, and I thought the cleaning/maintenance would be fairly simple, like my handguns. Well, I was wrong. There is certainly far more involved with this than I originally anticipated; and, of course the internet is never any help with 100 different people having 100 different opinions. So, once again, I find myself coming to all of you!


    I plan shooting around once-a-month, if that. Most likely Firing FMJ or mostly copper jacketed rounds. I've got some Remington Core-Lokt that'll probably be the first things to fly down range.

    Can anyone explain copper fouling/copper solvent and if I ever need to use this? Also, if I need to use this, would I use it in conjunction with another cleaner or it as the sole cleaner? Secondly, Oil and Grease; I'm seeing that I should use a grease on the locking lugs and bolt; however, oil on all other parts. Is this correct? What benefit does grease have over oil on these parts? Brush types (Nylon, Bronze, copper); I understand not to use a copper brush with a copper solvent; but what brush do all of you use? What is the REAL difference?

    My final question; I generally drag a bore-snake with a little oil down the barrel once I'm done cleaning; should I continue this practice on my rifle, as well?

    I was planning on using Ballistol or CLP as a base cleaner/lube/protectant over the majority of the rifle and some synthetic mobil 1 grease; I was leaning toward the Ballistol so I don't have to worry about the wood stock. I'll keep tacking on questions if I think of any more; thank you for all your help everyone. Happy Holidays!

    Thanks,
    Madcap
     
    Last edited:

    BigDaddy

    Ultimate Member
    Feb 7, 2014
    2,235
    It is my first rifle, and I thought the cleaning/maintenance would be fairly simple, like my handguns. Well, I was wrong. There is certainly far more involved with this than I originally anticipated; and, of course the internet is never any help with 100 different people having 100 different opinions. So, once again, I find myself coming to all of you!

    Bwa ha ha ha. :lol2: This is going to be one of those threads that goes 100 pages.
     

    Madcap

    Everybody Loves Mad!
    Nov 5, 2013
    19
    Yeah, but I trust you all a little more than the 100 other posters on another website. We'll see! I'm more concerned with doing something wrong versus not doing something the 'perfect' way.
     

    Pinecone

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Feb 4, 2013
    28,175
    Current thinking is dont clean until the accuracy starts to fall off. Nylon brushes, and first carbon solvent only. Copper cleaning only if needed.

    One caveat, if you shoot corrosive ammo, you MUST clean after every tme you shoot.

    You use grease where there is contact under pressure. Grease wrks better there,
     

    Sticky

    Beware of Dog
    MDS Supporter
    Mar 16, 2013
    4,503
    AA Co
    I have always cleaned my rifles, bolt or otherwise, with a Dewey rod and patches... patch out solvent works great, patch it wet (wait a little between patches to let it work on the copper fouling) til the patches come out clean, send a few dry ones down, then an oily one to prevent rusting in storage. I always use a rod guide and clean from the breech to the muzzle.

    No brushes on my long guns for the most part.. ;)

    Grease is better on pressure points, like the bolt lugs, or hammer/sear on an AR action, oil otherwise and Mobil 1 is a good choice and economical as lubes go..
     

    rseymorejr

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Feb 28, 2011
    26,240
    Harford County
    A good solid 1-piece rod with proper sized jag and clean from the breach end. Don't overclean, and as mentioned if you must use corrosive ammo clean thoroughly.
     

    mopar92

    Official MDS Court Jester
    May 5, 2011
    9,513
    Taneytown
    I would detail clean it the first time and from then on run the boresnake after every outing to break up any heavy or excessive deposits. Some people swear by different things but a good way to gauge if you need a cleaning is by looking at the grooves of the rifling, if you can still see it, you can still put off the cleaning. As pinecone said it doesnt really need cleaning until the accuracy drops off.

    As for brands its like breakfast cereal. Use what you like. The other members have covered grease vs oil.
     

    Madcap

    Everybody Loves Mad!
    Nov 5, 2013
    19
    Thanks guys! I got a lot of solid information. So far I've accumulated a whole lot of items and information. In case anyone is curious I went with a Dewey Rod / Parker Hale Jags, Nylon Brush for aforementioned rod, guide rod, Snake and cotton patches.

    I'm still picking out my everyday cleaner and copper solvent; Leaning towards Ballistol for everyday and Hoppe's copper solvent.

    Of course, Mobil 1 Grease and Oil here I come!
     

    Pinecone

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Feb 4, 2013
    28,175
    Yes, I was doing something else as I answered.

    Jag and patches are primary. Nylon brush if you need to brush.

    And if you remove the copper, expect to have to fire a number of rounds to bring the barrel back. Some copper smooths over barrel imperfections.

    The clean every day or every time it is fired is a hold over from corrosive ammo and the military. But in the military, if you wear out a barrel from cleaning, they replace it for free. For your own firearms, you PAY. Your choice. :)
     

    Bolts Rock

    Living in Free America!
    Apr 8, 2012
    6,123
    Northern Alabama
    For carbon I use Ed's Red for copper either regular Hoppes #9 or Sweets if it's really bad coppering. Hoppes will do the carbon just fine but Ed's Red is faster and I prefer the smell.

    As mentioned one piece rod from the breech. Bore mop, nylon brush, jag and patches. No matter what solvent this is my process (I have bore mops for Sweets that I don't mix with the other two solvents):

    Carbon-
    1- wet bore mop from the breech, rewet before pulling back from the muzzle. Let sit 5 minutes.

    2- wet nylon brush for several srtokes.

    3- wet patch, let drop off at the muzzle, repeat.

    4- dry patch, let drop off at the muzzle repeat. Examine patches, if filthy repeat 1-4.

    Copper-
    1- bore mop as above but scrub several strokes after rewetting at muzzle. On final stroke rewet at muzzle and pull rod back. Let rifle sit with the muzzle angled down a little. For Sweets no longer than 10 minutes for Hoppes an hour to overnight won't hurt.

    2- wet patch, let fall off at muzzle. It should be blue/green. Repeat.

    3- dry patch as above.

    4- examine bore with light, you'll see copper streaks if you need to repeat decoppering. Repeat if necessary.

    5- wet patch with oil or protectant of choice.

    Cleaning frequency and regimen depends on the barrel material, how bad that particular barrel fouls and whether I plan to store it for a long period. For my 03A3 it gets carbon cleaned with just patches every outing and the full cleaning after 600 rounds or when accuracy falls off.
     

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