The Official C&R Bubbafication Porn Thread

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  • iH8DemLibz

    When All Else Fails.
    Apr 1, 2013
    25,396
    Libtardistan
    You asked for it. So here goes.

    I thought it would be fun to post any and all Curio and Relic Bubba rifles here.

    As we all know, some surplus firearms are total POS and are worth less than what you actually paid for them and they will never be anything other than a toss around beaters.

    Many of us built Bubba's from just barreled actions and not complete rifles.

    So don't be ascairt. Let's see those cobbled together Frankenrifles.

    And remember, if God didn't want us to build Bubba guns, he wouldn't have given us JB-Weld and Camo in a can.


    Turkish Model 38.

    8mm Mauser. 18-1/2 inch barrel. 39 inch OAL

    Homemade muzzle brake. Slip fitted on to the barrel and secured with JB-Weld of course.

    Rustoleum rattle camo.

    bubba turk 002.jpg

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    Melnic

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Dec 27, 2012
    15,282
    HoCo
    I'll admit to my mistakes, its what makes us better.
    I like this thread from a prospective to teach others by our own mistakes. that's how I'm going to take this post:

    My second Mosin, The mount sucked and the red dot sucked. More trouble than it was worth. I hope to take my lessen and convince other not to follow the same path. It was far easier to aim, but did not shoot any better. The produced as much pattern disbursement as just using the iron sights. It was easier to adjust the sights though.
    This was about a year ago. The red dot was off the next week I and sold the Mosin to a friend yesterday.
     

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    smoothebore

    Active Member
    Stevens Springfield Model 56, .22 cal, I bought it in a pawn shop for $60 with a bulged barrel. I cut the barrel to barely legal length, recarved the stock, checkered, added ebony and heart pine butt and grip cap, and added a Millet Red Dot Sight. Bubba? Yeah, guilty.
     

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    amoebicmagician

    Samopal Goblin
    Dec 26, 2012
    4,174
    Columbia, MD
    I'm eager to see where this goes.

    I have a few to post here as well, gotta dig out the camera.

    Man, those rear iron sight sight bases usually SUCK unless you do one of two things:

    drill holes in the mount corresponding to the holes in the dovetail, and use either the original pins, or roll pins from home depot. The great thing about roll pins is that you have some wiggle room as far as diameter goes, and the spring pressure will keep that thing in there ROCK SOLID.

    The second option is good old JB weld under the base with a bead of weld on the dovetail in front and in back of the sight base to give it extra protection from sliding forward and backwards under recoil.

    There are also some MUCH better rear sight replacement kits. My favorite of which actually has a rear iron sight built into the picatinny rail at the rear, giving you a longer sight radius. Mounting requires drilling and tapping the receiver behind the chamber mouth, as well as the the rear sight base. When fully mounted it is completely rock solid.

    As for the muzzle brake secured with JB weld, how much have you shot the thing? Do you think it will come loose? How much does it help with recoil?
     

    4095fanatic

    Paramagic
    Dec 3, 2010
    1,036
    I'm glad everyone here can be open minded... I'm a member of a forum where even cleaning a stock with anything other than lemon oil will get you scolded, and advocating the refinishing of a milsurp will get your post deleted and yourself banned (though they do have a bubba section).
     

    Dave91

    Ultimate Member
    Nov 25, 2009
    1,988
    Anne Arundel
    I'll admit to my mistakes, its what makes us better.
    I like this thread from a prospective to teach others by our own mistakes. that's how I'm going to take this post:

    My second Mosin, The mount sucked and the red dot sucked. More trouble than it was worth. I hope to take my lessen and convince other not to follow the same path. It was far easier to aim, but did not shoot any better. The produced as much pattern disbursement as just using the iron sights. It was easier to adjust the sights though.
    This was about a year ago. The red dot was off the next week I and sold the Mosin to a friend yesterday.

    Jeez, did you have to re-zero the red dot after every shot?
     

    iH8DemLibz

    When All Else Fails.
    Apr 1, 2013
    25,396
    Libtardistan
    That muzzle brake is rock solid. It's called jb WELD for a very good reason. And it has a temperature range in the 600 degree area.

    Yes, it works and very loud too. Noise goes sideways and not straight forward. My idea was to keep the scope from whiting out when hunting in low light conditions.

    JB is a Bubba builders best friend. There is also a JB-Kwik with a 4 minute set time.


    Smoothbore,

    Excellent craftsmanship on that stock. I worked with Ebony ONCE. The very definition of hardwood.
     

    Melnic

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Dec 27, 2012
    15,282
    HoCo
    Jeez, did you have to re-zero the red dot after every shot?

    No, just each time out.
    The first 3 shots were from adjusting red dot, then I covered them up after a cease fire. Then the one to the right and adjusted (pulled out the manual to read the MOA change per click) then shot the rest into the black. That same red dot, I put on a 22 and it was drifting on the 22. It eventually went onto my son's airsoft. Lesson learned. I'm sure with the right mount as suggested and a better optic, a mosin can be made to a meat getter, but I can shoot iron sights much better now anyway. It does take more time to line up the shot though. It was only worth the time I took to learn that what I was doing was a waste of time and something I did not want to repeat for various reasons.

    I saw a guy with a cut down 91/30 (cut 2" off the muzzle and crowned) and a dovetail mounted scout scope at the range once. It was doing about 2-3" groups at 100 yards and he had to take about 2-4 minutes between shots.
     

    Machodoc

    Old Guy
    Jun 27, 2012
    5,745
    Just South of Chuck County
    I think that I have never seen,
    A really cool Bubba-ed Mosin,
    To strip it bare and change its stock,
    To plastic crap--that's just a crock!
    Poems are made by fools like me,
    But bigger fools spoil history!
     

    amoebicmagician

    Samopal Goblin
    Dec 26, 2012
    4,174
    Columbia, MD
    That muzzle brake is rock solid. It's called jb WELD for a very good reason. And it has a temperature range in the 600 degree area.

    JB is a Bubba builders best friend. There is also a JB-Kwik with a 4 minute set time.

    Don't use the Kiwk weld, it fails much easier than the regular weld.

    I'm a huge proponent of JB weld. I've used it to fill in the safety holes on two of my Tokarevs. One was a Romanian that the safety was missing when I bought it, the second was a M57 where the thing was bent. I mixed it with black magnetite as a pigment to match the color of the bluing, and it came out beautiful in both cases.

    I'm a huge fan of JB weld, it just has it's limits, and they are much easier to reach when using the kwik weld.

    I've also found that the 600 degree temp range is INCREDIBLY conservative. If you use a 65-70% resin to 35-30% hardener mix, it will take longer to cure, but will be even more heat resistant.

    I repaired a lower handguard on a VZ-2008 I had that had a long crack in it. The crack was not something making the thing non-functional, I just did not want it spreading, so I wiggled some JB weld in there, and then lined the inside of the handguard just to give it some extra rigidity.

    So as anyone who owns one knows, the lower handguard on VZ-58 pattern rifles has no metal heat shield in it, and gets HOT HOT HOT after about 50 fairly rapid shots, although it also sheds heat very quickly- ANYWAYS, the Weld held great, but also had the unintended consequence of acting as a heat shield. I guess the steel really does make a difference. My point was that that handguard gets as hot as the bejesus, and the weld has not failed yet. It's been about four years since I applied it, and after driving out the roll pin to remove the handguard for cleaning purposes, I found no cracking, no chipping, no deformation of any kind. The only trouble spot is that a tiny lip of weld on the bottom left corner seemed to have separated from the handguard material. But if I remember correctly I believe I did not degrease any of that area of the ballistol I condition all my polymer and wood with, so when looked at that way it's really quite something. Just to be safe I sanded off the lip, degreased and cleaned, and applied a touch up bead overtop. If it can withstand all the heat of lo these many many MANY rounds, I think it's fine in your muzzle brake.

    JB weld almost never lets me down, and when it does it's usually the PAINT behind it that uncouples from the surface, rather than the weld.

    That Kwik Weld, though... Pain in the ass. Not as strong by half as much. It's marked as having a tensile strength about half as high as original JB weld, but in practice I find it does not like to stick to many surfaces.

    The way I'm setting JB weld these days is to mix about a 60/40 ratio resin/hardener and then apply to the piece, then put it in front of a space heater on medium heat. This practice speeds up curing time to about 2 1/2 hours to handleable, and the overall strength of the bond is increased due to the heat kind of melting the weld while still in it's liquid state, allowing it to creep into the pores of the material while in this thinner consistency, then quickly sets up.

    I love the stuff. Just thought that 8mm gas pressure might rip the muzzle brake off. Then again, if it's applied the entire length of the brake around the entire circumference...
     

    Machodoc

    Old Guy
    Jun 27, 2012
    5,745
    Just South of Chuck County
    Who can take a rifle ...
    Pull off all the wood ...
    Put it into plastic,
    Make it like it's from the 'hood?

    The Bubba man ...

    The Bubba man can!

    The Bubba man can,
    'Cuz he changes all the parts,
    And screws it up real good!


    Who can chop a barrel ...
    Bolt on Walmart sights ...
    Pretend that it's tactical,
    And great for firefights?

    The Bubba man ...

    The Bubba man can!

    The Bubba man can,
    'Cuz he doesn't give a damn,
    'Bout what that gun's withstood.


    The Bubba man fakes,
    Mags and muzzle brakes,
    Tripods, stocks, and then he wishes,
    He could shoot guys just like fishes,
    Tryin' to hide the fact--he swishes!


    Who can take Pop's old gun ...
    Make it look real kewl ...
    Thinks that he's a genius,
    But he's really just a fool?

    The Bubba man ...

    The Bubba man can!

    The Bubba man can,
    'Cuz he'd rather do that than,
    Just keep it all old-school!
     
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