Upgrades to my brand new RIA 1911 Tactical

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  • StanleyG

    Active Member
    Feb 27, 2011
    145
    MontCo and Balt Co
    As I'm waiting for my brand new 1911 RIA tactical , I keep thinking of things I want to do to it. I am open to learn some basic gunsmithing with this gun.

    I already have a post on the red dot sight:
    http://www.mdshooters.com/showthread.php?t=54016

    and there is seem to be a conversation going on on a diff grips and mags.

    Any other ideas ?

    thank you all !!
     

    Jackson923

    Hell Yeah!
    Jan 25, 2008
    1,942
    Harford Co
    I plan on changing the grips to the VZ Operator II's in Dirty Olive, adding some extra mags, either Wilson or Chip MC, and possibly a threaded barrel with a compensator (maybe).
     

    mikec

    Ultimate Member
    Dec 1, 2007
    11,453
    Off I-83
    No. Get the gun and shoot it. Do that for maybe six to nine months and then decide if anything really bugs you.

    I changed the grips on my RIA almost immediately because the stock panels just felt bad to me.

    I know I want to get either a gold or brass or maybe a white bead in the front sight, but that isn't an urgent need.

    Mags, ammo and grip panels are the only real must haves. Oh, and cleaning items and some lube.
     

    clandestine

    AR-15 Savant
    Oct 13, 2008
    37,031
    Elkton, MD
    As I'm waiting for my brand new 1911 RIA tactical , I keep thinking of things I want to do to it. I am open to learn some basic gunsmithing with this gun.

    I already have a post on the red dot sight:
    http://www.mdshooters.com/showthread.php?t=54016

    and there is seem to be a conversation going on on a diff grips and mags.

    Any other ideas ?

    thank you all !!

    Mags, use Wilson Combat mags, try to avoid mags with metal followers unless the follower is rounded up front (Pointed metal followers damage some 1911's feed ramps).

    Grips, G10, Hogue Aluminum Grips, Crimson Trace Laser Grips, or some classic checkered cocobolo wood grips.

    Unless you are familiar with gunsmithing dont do anything that would be considered gunsmithing to the gun until you really know what you are doing. Get a few 1911 books and read them thoroughly before you even think of taking a file, dremel, mill, ect...to a 1911. Get a book by Jerry Kuhnhausen first and read it several times over.

    One wrong mistake wil cost you WAY more than you saved trying to do much work yourself at home. Ive seen hundreds of people in a bad spot after trying their hand ant smithing 9Especially 1911's) and they had to pay me alot to get them out of it. I would prefer for people to never need someone like me.

    Im not saying you arent capible but understand the gun and the work BEFORE doing anything, and dont listen to any gunsmithing advice on the internet, 95% of its bad advice.
     

    clandestine

    AR-15 Savant
    Oct 13, 2008
    37,031
    Elkton, MD
    No. Get the gun and shoot it. Do that for maybe six to nine months and then decide if anything really bugs you.

    I changed the grips on my RIA almost immediately because the stock panels just felt bad to me.

    I know I want to get either a gold or brass or maybe a white bead in the front sight, but that isn't an urgent need.

    Mags, ammo and grip panels are the only real must haves. Oh, and cleaning items and some lube.

    Listen to this guy, this is EXCELLENT advice. :thumbsup:
     

    vector03

    Frustrated Incorporated
    Jan 7, 2009
    2,519
    Columbia
    Is this the C&S Trigger kit commonly referenced?

    dropinlg.jpg
     

    StanleyG

    Active Member
    Feb 27, 2011
    145
    MontCo and Balt Co
    Mags, use Wilson Combat mags, try to avoid mags with metal followers unless the follower is rounded up front (Pointed metal followers damage some 1911's feed ramps).

    Grips, G10, Hogue Aluminum Grips, Crimson Trace Laser Grips, or some classic checkered cocobolo wood grips.

    Unless you are familiar with gunsmithing dont do anything that would be considered gunsmithing to the gun until you really know what you are doing. Get a few 1911 books and read them thoroughly before you even think of taking a file, dremel, mill, ect...to a 1911. Get a book by Jerry Kuhnhausen first and read it several times over.

    One wrong mistake wil cost you WAY more than you saved trying to do much work yourself at home. Ive seen hundreds of people in a bad spot after trying their hand ant smithing 9Especially 1911's) and they had to pay me alot to get them out of it. I would prefer for people to never need someone like me.

    Im not saying you arent capible but understand the gun and the work BEFORE doing anything, and dont listen to any gunsmithing advice on the internet, 95% of its bad advice.

    That's a very good advice.. thank you for the books references, I will def. have to learn alot and will take it extremly slow.

    But I have to start somewhere.
     

    clandestine

    AR-15 Savant
    Oct 13, 2008
    37,031
    Elkton, MD
    Is this the C&S Trigger kit commonly referenced?

    dropinlg.jpg

    Yup, and most of them drop in beautifully. They really should be installed and tuned as well. You want tight but not overly tight Hammer and Sear Pins. You want to polish the face of the Sear Spring where they make contact with the Sear and Disconnector, and put a slight angle on the leg that contact the Disconnector to prevent binding, and be sure the Sear Spring hook does not protrude into the Mag Well. You want to dykem (Dye) the Sear and Hammer Hooks and check engagement. Make sure the Hammer Strut dont bind on the Hammer, and that it dont slap the Beavertail Safety when fired. You want to check and make sure the Hammer Spur dont make contact with the Beavertail, or the Beavertail Hammer Recess. You want to be sure the Disconnector tension is right and dont bind up movement of the slide. Be sure the Mainspring Plunger moves freely and check to make sure the Sear, or Hammer dont bind in the frame, or that there is excessive side to side slop with the Hammer or Sear. Also check to make sure the previously cut Safety has proper engagement and still holds the new internals and is safe. Do a Slide drop test and see if the Hammer follows on an unloaded gun with the grip safety engaged and your fiinger OFF the trigger.

    These kits usually feel best when a full fit Trigger is instaled and fit with minimal travel and slop.
     

    mikec

    Ultimate Member
    Dec 1, 2007
    11,453
    Off I-83
    This gun is not for self defence or carry. This is my project gun that I plan to upgrade and learn from. But I will most def. put a few hundred rounds through before any upgrades to get a feel for it.

    My RIA isn't a defense gun either, but before I would do anything to possibly void the very good warranty on the gun, make sure it isn't one of the few lemons. Yes, lemons. Every factory produces them.

    Why do you want to change something? Education is a valid answer, but to buy a gun and immediately start rebuilding it to me is a little much.

    Buying a second slide and components and then learning how to properly assemble that slide to me is a better route. You have a working slide, on the gun, and you can see how things are done. The same with a new inexpensive frame and parts.
     

    webb297

    Ultimate Member
    Dec 29, 2010
    2,800
    Bowie
    Yup, and most of them drop in beautifully. They really should be installed and tuned as well. You want tight but not overly tight Hammer and Sear Pins. You want to polish the face of the Sear Spring where they make contact with the Sear and Disconnector, and put a slight angle on the leg that contact the Disconnector to prevent binding, and be sure the Sear Spring hook does not protrude into the Mag Well. You want to dykem (Dye) the Sear and Hammer Hooks and check engagement. Make sure the Hammer Strut dont bind on the Hammer, and that it dont slap the Beavertail Safety when fired. You want to check and make sure the Hammer Spur dont make contact with the Beavertail, or the Beavertail Hammer Recess. You want to be sure the Disconnector tension is right and dont bind up movement of the slide. Be sure the Mainspring Plunger moves freely and check to make sure the Sear, or Hammer dont bind in the frame, or that there is excessive side to side slop with the Hammer or Sear. Also check to make sure the previously cut Safety has proper engagement and still holds the new internals and is safe. Do a Slide drop test and see if the Hammer follows on an unloaded gun with the grip safety engaged and your fiinger OFF the trigger.

    These kits usually feel best when a full fit Trigger is instaled and fit with minimal travel and slop.


    Got it Clandestine - If we want to upgrade it we should take it to somebody who knows what their doing, as "drop in" might be a bit more complicated than it seems. What would it cost for someone like you to do something like that (trigger and kit)? Not that I want to right off the bat, but for refrence.
     
    Last edited:

    Sinjin

    Active Member
    Jan 21, 2009
    413
    Thanks Sinjin :) You are too kind.

    NP. :D

    I plan on doing those upgrades, plus a few other little tweaks, once I've shot the &*#(%)#%) out of my RIA. Like you and others mentioned, I wanted to really shoot it for a while before really making any determinations on what to change. I'm assuming the same upgrades/parts kit can be made to the 9mm version, but either way, I'll find out when I get closer to time.

    I also agree that grip will probably be the first thing you'll want to change, as the fake wood that comes with most is really slick and really ugly. :o
     

    clandestine

    AR-15 Savant
    Oct 13, 2008
    37,031
    Elkton, MD
    Got it Clandestine - If we want to upgrade it we should take it to somebody who knows what their doing, as "drop in" might be a bit more complicated than it seems. What would it cost for someone like you to do something like that (trigger and kit)? Not that I want to right off the bat, but for refrence.

    Most of that work can be done at home with mimimal tools and just some patience. I just wanted to really explain what to do to get the most out of the Drop In Kits. :)

    If I had to make a guestimate about 90% of all advertised "drop in" items sold need more fitting than just dropping in if the best results are desired. Some people may just not know what to look for if somethings not right, which can lead to accelerated wear or other future problems.

    I hate to see good people have issues with their guns and accessories, and I try to help whenever I can so that people avoid problems and disapointments.

    Im not doing any more new work, but the Shop I used to work for charges $95.00 labor to do all that and test fire the gun as well (With Customer Supplied Ammo).
     
    Last edited:

    FFMike

    Ultimate Member
    Feb 4, 2010
    1,839
    Howard County
    Yup, and most of them drop in beautifully. They really should be installed and tuned as well. You want tight but not overly tight Hammer and Sear Pins. You want to polish the face of the Sear Spring where they make contact with the Sear and Disconnector, and put a slight angle on the leg that contact the Disconnector to prevent binding, and be sure the Sear Spring hook does not protrude into the Mag Well. You want to dykem (Dye) the Sear and Hammer Hooks and check engagement. Make sure the Hammer Strut dont bind on the Hammer, and that it dont slap the Beavertail Safety when fired. You want to check and make sure the Hammer Spur dont make contact with the Beavertail, or the Beavertail Hammer Recess. You want to be sure the Disconnector tension is right and dont bind up movement of the slide. Be sure the Mainspring Plunger moves freely and check to make sure the Sear, or Hammer dont bind in the frame, or that there is excessive side to side slop with the Hammer or Sear. Also check to make sure the previously cut Safety has proper engagement and still holds the new internals and is safe. Do a Slide drop test and see if the Hammer follows on an unloaded gun with the grip safety engaged and your fiinger OFF the trigger.

    These kits usually feel best when a full fit Trigger is instaled and fit with minimal travel and slop.
    :thumbsup::thumbsup:
    I think if I were doing anything other then grips and mags I would just come see you!!
     

    clandestine

    AR-15 Savant
    Oct 13, 2008
    37,031
    Elkton, MD
    NP. :D

    I plan on doing those upgrades, plus a few other little tweaks, once I've shot the &*#(%)#%) out of my RIA. Like you and others mentioned, I wanted to really shoot it for a while before really making any determinations on what to change. I'm assuming the same upgrades/parts kit can be made to the 9mm version, but either way, I'll find out when I get closer to time.

    I also agree that grip will probably be the first thing you'll want to change, as the fake wood that comes with most is really slick and really ugly. :o

    I agree, those grips have to go.

    I think they recycle popsicle sticks to make those grips, I swear they are the most junktastic grips put on a firearm.
     

    jonnyl

    Ultimate Member
    Sep 23, 2009
    5,969
    Frederick
    Yup, and most of them drop in beautifully. They really should be installed and tuned as well. You want tight but not overly tight Hammer and Sear Pins. You want to polish the face of the Sear Spring where they make contact with the Sear and Disconnector, and put a slight angle on the leg that contact the Disconnector to prevent binding, and be sure the Sear Spring hook does not protrude into the Mag Well. You want to dykem (Dye) the Sear and Hammer Hooks and check engagement. Make sure the Hammer Strut dont bind on the Hammer, and that it dont slap the Beavertail Safety when fired. You want to check and make sure the Hammer Spur dont make contact with the Beavertail, or the Beavertail Hammer Recess. You want to be sure the Disconnector tension is right and dont bind up movement of the slide. Be sure the Mainspring Plunger moves freely and check to make sure the Sear, or Hammer dont bind in the frame, or that there is excessive side to side slop with the Hammer or Sear. Also check to make sure the previously cut Safety has proper engagement and still holds the new internals and is safe. Do a Slide drop test and see if the Hammer follows on an unloaded gun with the grip safety engaged and your fiinger OFF the trigger.

    These kits usually feel best when a full fit Trigger is instaled and fit with minimal travel and slop.

    So it's tax time, just fill out the 1040-EZ. Then just to be safe you might want to read through this:
    10-08-16_tax_code.png
    :D

    My knees start knockin' whenever I see "may require some fitting"... :o
     

    pasayan73

    Active Member
    May 31, 2009
    334
    laurel, md
    should i go for less $$ RIA 1911 and do upgrades or stay with a little bit $$$ STI 1911?
    I am planning to use it for competition. any thoughts on that?
     

    clandestine

    AR-15 Savant
    Oct 13, 2008
    37,031
    Elkton, MD
    should i go for less $$ RIA 1911 and do upgrades or stay with a little bit $$$ STI 1911?
    I am planning to use it for competition. any thoughts on that?

    Your going to likely pay more money to have a good Smith mod a RIA for race gun purposes than just buying a pre made race gun off the bat.
     

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