HBAR upper help for 2 post SB281 lowers

canonian · Jan 25, 2016

I have 2 lowers to build purchase after SB281 and I'm having a damn hard time picking one.

My first build used a LWRC M6A1 upper but I have to be a little more budget conscious on the next two.

If someone could point me to a complete solid nothin' fancy 16" HBAR upper (fluted would be nice) I'd really appreciate it. Something in the neighborhood of $400-$500 with BCG

I can't stand looking in the safe at the 2 lonely lowers.

outrider58 · Jan 25, 2016

Found this without too much trouble...

http://www.del-ton.com/Custom_Upper_p/cu104.htm

Oops. Out of stock, but this is the one I meant to post

dreadpirate · Jan 25, 2016

JSR Surplus (and it does say HBAR

)

http://www.jsesurplus.com/JSE16HBarChromeLined1x95.56withSightTowerFlatTopUpper.aspx

http://www.jsesurplus.com/JSE16HbarMoly1x95.56withSightTowerFlatTopUpperM16BCG.aspx

http://www.jsesurplus.com/JSE16WilsonArmsHBar1x95.56Moly1RailGasBlockUpperComplete.aspx

http://www.jsesurplus.com/JSE16WilsonArmsHBar1x95.56MolyRailHeightGasBlockUpperComplete.aspx

71Chevelle427 · Jan 25, 2016

I just put together one using this upper:

http://shop.ar15hardware.com/product.sc?productId=597&categoryId=61

Was $429 (less than $450 shipped) with fluted stainless HBAR barrel (+$30) option.

Very pleased with it. One of my others has a JSE HBAR barrel, on what was a PSA complete upper. The barrel is not stamped. I keep copy of receipt that does say it's an HBAR barrel, although it's impossible to prove that any unmarked barrel is the barrel that was bought, and is advertised as an HBAR...

I need the full length floating hand guard to be able to extend my left arm out, and make the gun much more comfortable for me to shoot. A "carbine" or "Midlength" style has me feeling like I'm too scrunched up when aiming...The 15" handguard on a 16" barrel makes it feel perfect for me.

canonian · Jan 25, 2016

71Chevelle427,

Thanks perfect. It isn't that I cannot find them, I want one that goes bang every time and not problematic. I'm not an AR upper expert.

71Chevelle427 · Jan 25, 2016

canonian said:
71Chevelle427,

Thanks perfect. It isn't that I cannot find them, I want one that goes bang every time and not problematic. I'm not an AR upper expert.

Neither am I, but out of FIVE AR's, which consists of 2 other PSA lowered AR's, an unmodified Colt and Windam...this one is easily my favorite, and most comfortable to shoot. :thumbsup:

FWIW, none gave, or have ever given me, any problem whatsoever.

canonian · Jan 25, 2016

71Chevelle427 said:
Neither am I, but out of FIVE AR's, which consists of 2 other PSA lowered AR's, an unmodified Colt and Windam...this one is easily my favorite, and most comfortable to shoot.

FWIW, none gave, or have ever given me, any problem whatsoever.

The reassurance of someone saying it works great helps. Plus it is fluted and a flat top all the way. Works for me.

canonian · Jan 25, 2016

Also thanks for everyone else posting links. I had been on JSE several times but was unsure of reliability.

NateIU10 · Jan 25, 2016

I think we just got in a few PSA HBAR uppers that are sub $500 w/ BCG/CH

mikemike328 · Jan 25, 2016

which psa uppers are hbar ?

dreadpirate · Jan 25, 2016

mikemike328 said:
which psa uppers are hbar ?

There are some advertised as "heavy profile" although they do not say (to my knowledge) HBAR.

NateIU10 · Jan 25, 2016

mikemike328 said:
which psa uppers are hbar ?

There is one they sell that is marketed as HBAR, but only sell it dealer-direct to my knowledge. Should have two of the complete rifles in also.

amoebicmagician · Jan 25, 2016

go with the JSE nitride HBAR 1-9 if you shoot mostly 55 grain

1/7 if you shoot more expensive heavier ammo or reload.

Tightest group of my life is through a 1/9 jse nitrided barrel, m4 profile. The HBAR should shoot better.

canonian · Jan 26, 2016

amoebicmagician said:
go with the JSE nitride HBAR 1-9 if you shoot mostly 55 grain

1/7 if you shoot more expensive heavier ammo or reload.

Tightest group of my life is through a 1/9 jse nitrided barrel, m4 profile. The HBAR should shoot better.

I have 2 1/7s and a 1/9 now. Maybe a some 1/8s! Just kidding it really does not matter for the plinking I do. Perhaps a 18" or 20" wylde stainless fluted in 1/7 for some long range fun and plain jane 1/9 16. I just want to get them built before some law is passed that prevents me from doing so or getting parts shipped to my door.

Which is better, length or twist rate? wait.. just kidding

DaemonAssassin · Jan 27, 2016

canonian said:
I have 2 1/7s and a 1/9 now. Maybe a some 1/8s! Just kidding it really does not matter for the plinking I do. Perhaps a 18" or 20" wylde stainless fluted in 1/7 for some long range fun and plain jane 1/9 16. I just want to get them built before some law is passed that prevents me from doing so or getting parts shipped to my door.

Which is better, length or twist rate? wait.. just kidding

The twist rate allows you to stabilize heaver bullets. A 1:9 has a slower twist rate than a 1:7. By that reasoning a 1:9 will stabilize lighter bullets (40gr to 69gr) with reliability. A 1:7 will stabilize heavier bullets (55gr all the way to 90gr) without the bullets being over stabilized. With a fast twist rate, a lighter bullet will become over stabilized and has a high probability of fragging after it exits the barrel, meaning that the bullet rips itself apart from the centrifugal force imparted by the twist rate of the barrel.

If you want to shoot lighter bullets and heavier bullets, you might want to look at going with a 1:8 barrel, so you have the best of both worlds.

In the world o AR reliability, the twist rate of the barrel is not the issue, it is the gas port, gas tube, bolt, gas key, gas rings, buffer, and buffer spring that are the main culprits for lack of reliability. If the upper is assembled correctly with good parts, none of those components will be an issue.

If you want to learn about the platform and be able to work on the platform at home, I highly recommend that you take the Armorer class that School of the American Rifle offers. I've taken the class and I recommend it to everybody that wants to work on or build their own AR. Chad has a top notch outfit, and if there is anything wrong with your rifle, he will fix your rifle (if possible) right there in front of the class, so everybody has a chance to learn about the issue and how to fix it. An added bonus is that you get to hang out with Chad and a lot of your fellow members from MDS. You never know, somebody might have something that you might need, while you are in class.

outrider58 · Jan 28, 2016

DaemonAssassin said:
The twist rate allows you to stabilize heaver bullets. A 1:9 has a slower twist rate than a 1:7. By that reasoning a 1:9 will stabilize lighter bullets (40gr to 69gr) with reliability. A 1:7 will stabilize heavier bullets (55gr all the way to 90gr) without the bullets being over stabilized. With a fast twist rate, a lighter bullet will become over stabilized and has a high probability of fragging after it exits the barrel, meaning that the bullet rips itself apart from the centrifugal force imparted by the twist rate of the barrel.

If you want to shoot lighter bullets and heavier bullets, you might want to look at going with a 1:8 barrel, so you have the best of both worlds.

In the world o AR reliability, the twist rate of the barrel is not the issue, it is the gas port, gas tube, bolt, gas key, gas rings, buffer, and buffer spring that are the main culprits for lack of reliability. If the upper is assembled correctly with good parts, none of those components will be an issue.

If you want to learn about the platform and be able to work on the platform at home, I highly recommend that you take the Armorer class that School of the American Rifle offers. I've taken the class and I recommend it to everybody that wants to work on or build their own AR. Chad has a top notch outfit, and if there is anything wrong with your rifle, he will fix your rifle (if possible) right there in front of the class, so everybody has a chance to learn about the issue and how to fix it. An added bonus is that you get to hang out with Chad and a lot of your fellow members from MDS. You never know, somebody might have something that you might need, while you are in class.

Good post and good info here. :thumbsup:

DA!

amoebicmagician · Jan 28, 2016

canonian said:
I have 2 1/7s and a 1/9 now. Maybe a some 1/8s! Just kidding it really does not matter for the plinking I do. Perhaps a 18" or 20" wylde stainless fluted in 1/7 for some long range fun and plain jane 1/9 16. I just want to get them built before some law is passed that prevents me from doing so or getting parts shipped to my door.

Which is better, length or twist rate? wait.. just kidding

regardless of twist rate, go nitride. I pimp it pretty hard on the forums, and with good reason. It has treated me amazingly well as far as wear and corrosion resistance goes. It is usually not much more expensive if at all, and damn worth the investment on factory guns.

Dave Greenberg · Jan 28, 2016

NateIU10 said:
There is one they sell that is marketed as HBAR, but only sell it dealer-direct to my knowledge. Should have two of the complete rifles in also.

Do you have any complete Noveske uppers?

HBAR upper help for 2 post SB281 lowers

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