Almost ready to admit defeat

bigalf · Apr 19, 2014

I bought a VZ2008, and wanted to tacticool it out with an M4 stock. I bought an adapter but for the life of me I can't get the screw that holds the old folding stock on. I dremeled it out so it wasn't so shallow, nothing. I heated it with a torch to break thread locker, nothing. The head is now kind of gnarled up. I am about to give up, but I hate to admit defeat. Might be time to go see a professional IP. Any thoughts?

Atlasarmory · Apr 19, 2014

Could it be left handed threads ?

Fox123 · Apr 19, 2014

Drill down center and use extractor?

protegeV · Apr 19, 2014

You're the third person I've heard of having issues getting that screw out. It's making me nervous bc I want to swap my folder out :ohnoes:

I'm no gunsmith but I think a little shock would help, a la an impact driver. But you're a bit past that point now

bigalf · Apr 19, 2014

I have seen nothing that says reverse threads. I figure worst case the smtith can cut a new thread perpendicular to the existing slot and impact wrench it out. I tried everything I could find on youtube. Im moving to a state taht does not allow folding stocks so that is the reason for the change. But boy its a challenge.

K.C.Dean · Apr 19, 2014

I looked at a youtube video to get an idea at what you are dealing with. It looks like a big screw. I've drilled out screws and broken bolts before. I just had to do one on my car. If you can start a hole in the center just keep increasing the bit size and eventually there isn't enough material left to cause any resistance and it will come out. Working in a trade where I have drilled and taped my own holes before helped me alot. To me it's all about having confidence in yourself to do the job. If it's out of your comfort zone then don't do it.

chevellenut71 · Apr 20, 2014

I had no problem with mine I will post some pics later today.

Gbh · Apr 20, 2014

Left twist drills bits spun counter-clockwise are good for drilling broken bolts. Sometimes, the bit will bite the bolt and spin it out.

rbird7282 · Apr 20, 2014

Fox123 said:
Drill down center and use extractor?

This. Screw extractors are inexpensive. Get a few and you should be able to get it out

silanehead · Apr 20, 2014

Mine looked like it was dipped in thread locker.
I used a little Bernzomatic torch from HD (about the size of a Sharpie).
Heated it from both ends, when it reached the right temperature, the screw broke free with almost no effort.
So much was left in the threads I had to heat it back up to get the new screw in.

iH8DemLibz · Apr 20, 2014

Heat is your friend when dealing with thread locking compound.

Not cherry red heat of course.

lsw · Apr 20, 2014

One of these and a breaker bar, ratchet, or if really tough, hammer-driven impact driver would be helpful too:

Drag link bit, available from auto parts store or tool supplier.

protegeV · Apr 20, 2014

lsw said:
One of these and a breaker bar, ratchet, or if really tough, hammer-driven impact driver would be helpful too:

Drag link bit, available from auto parts store or tool supplier.

Yeah, like I said earlier, an impact driver would do the trick at the beginning. Before you mangle the head of the bolt...

bigalf · Apr 20, 2014

Assuming I go the torch route are you heating just the heat or the thread end that is visible from inside the receiver? Any heat on the sides? I guess the lesson to this is loc tite works. Lol. This is my first experience with it.

iH8DemLibz · Apr 20, 2014

If you can access the area, you only need heat around the threads.

If only the screw head is visible, get your flame as small as possible and apply heat to the top of the screw head only. The heat will work its way downward.

Big, fat, huge, heat warning. Too much heat will anneal (soften) any purposefully hardened steel areas/parts.

Apply heat for 10 seconds and try to break it loose. If it won't break loose, add a little more heat and try again. This is more of an art than a science and all jobs are different.

Good luck.

bigalf · Apr 20, 2014

SUCCESS. Thanks Shooters. It was not easy. Ended up torching the hell out of it, and using a damp towel to keep the receiver as cool as possible. Started to hear the loc tite sizzle and crackle. Did about 10 seconds head cooled the receiver with wet rag, more heat, too about 3 time. Screw drive wasn't working so I took a punch and a hammer and smashed it in the corner of the screw head. When it finally broke free and turned a quarter turn, I had to double check, I thought I was hallucinating. Thank God that little sucker finally admitted defeat, and now its off and my new adapter is on. That was easy. Monday my M4 stock and railed fore end come in the mail and it will be complete. Picture to follow. Thanks Again Shooters. Go Bruins.

protegeV · Apr 20, 2014

Glad the persistence paid off for ya :thumbsup:

iH8DemLibz · Apr 20, 2014

Excellent!

chevellenut71 · Apr 20, 2014

Sorry for the late Pics Glad You Got it! :party29:

mitchugh · May 2, 2014

Any of you guys who successfully removed their folding stock willing to part with the screw??? I am in the need of a folding stock screw for my vz and I can't seem to find a source for them. Czech Point is out of stock, I did come across www.vz58rifle.com/ but I'm not really sure I'm comfortable ordering out of county. I didn't realize how obscure this little screw was going to be!

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