Mobile 1 synthetic??

Straightshooter · Feb 23, 2015

Yeah, that's what I said. Just think of what it could do for a machine gun.

Straightshooter · Feb 23, 2015

I lost two $850 hydraulic pumps to Mibile1 on my ExMark mowers. It was recommended by the factory. Switched to Amsoil and haven't had an issue sense.

Straightshooter · Feb 23, 2015

BeoBill said:
I really doubt that the internals of your gun will be subjected to the constant high temps/acid levels and particulate contamination that your crankcase sees. Just sayin'...

But, my foty doesn't have a filter.

Boom Boom · Feb 23, 2015

Straightshooter said:
I lost two $850 hydraulic pumps to Mibile1 on my ExMark mowers. It was recommended by the factory. Switched to Amsoil and haven't had an issue sense.

Probably because Mobile 1 changed from Group IV PAO to Group III mineral oil the better part of ten years ago. I change the oil on four vehicles and noticed the difference right away. Instead of draining out thin but dirty, it drained out thicker and reeked just like ordinary, low-rent mineral oil. I switched to Amsoil SSO and then to Royal Purple a couple of years later. I have nothing bad to say about Amsoil SSO.

clandestine · Feb 23, 2015

I have no doubt that Amsoil or Royal Purple are superior as listed here.

One has to remember why I suggest Motor Oil.

1) Is the cost/volume when compared to "Wonder Gun Lubes".
2) Is the performance of Synthetic Motor Oil when compared Gun Lubes is marginal to none.
3) Is availability. I like to be able to go into a Walmart or Auto Parts store and buy the oil I use for guns.

I use other dedicated products for guns that are mail order like Bobs Un-Cure, Rockset, Sleeve Retaining Loctite (Sometimes the Auto Parts Store has this), Nyogel, Aeroshell 33MS and such, but I use these much less than Lubricants. I use alot of lube.

I also use G96 and Barricade for external and internal protection suppliments. The baricade I get from the gun shop or Walmart. G96 isnt as common and is Gun Shop or Mail Order. Thus I use barricade most often for availability. G96 smells better but it more cumbersome to apply.

I may have overlooked it, but I have never seen either Royal Purple or Amsoil at my local Walmart, or Auto Parts Store. That alone makes it unappealing to me even if the performance exceeds Castrol, Mobil 1, or Rotella.

Remember Im not saying Mobol 1 is better than R.P. or Amsoil, but I have tried them on guns and see no significant improvement in the use over more readily available lubes as mentioned. Im certain the performance of R.P. or Amsoil is worth it for an engine.

IgotAgun · Feb 23, 2015

I use sand. I seems to work well.

clandestine · Feb 23, 2015

IgotAgun said:
I use sand. I seems to work well.

More lube for us.

Straightshooter · Feb 23, 2015

We know what you're saying. Just yanking some chains. I collect the last drippings from the cans and put it in a little squeeze bottle.

Boom Boom · Feb 23, 2015

clandestine said:
I may have overlooked it, but I have never seen either Royal Purple or Amsoil at my local Walmart, or Auto Parts Store.

Advance Auto carries Royal Purple. It's $10/quart there but that should last the average person for years. I think I saw it at the NAPA store near me, too.

You can order it online from Jegs for less than $8/quart with free shipping and handling if your order is $30 or more. I buy it from Jegs by the case and it usually shows up a day or two later.

I agree with you, though. For the average gun, any type of synthetic motor oil should be plenty good enough. Even synthetic blends like Havoline should be good enough.

clandestine · Feb 23, 2015

Boom Boom said:
Advance Auto carries Royal Purple. It's $10/quart there but that should last the average person for years. I think I saw it at the NAPA store near me, too.

You can order it online from Jegs for less than $8/quart with free shipping and handling if your order is $30 or more. I buy it from Jegs by the case and it usually shows up a day or two later.

I agree with you, though. For the average gun, any type of synthetic motor oil should be plenty good enough. Even synthetic blends like Havoline should be good enough.

Good to know, im going to look next time im in Advance.

Chad

Robert1955 · Feb 23, 2015

I can get anyone Amsoil 0W-40 full synthetic for about $8 a qt if they are interested. This is not a sales pitch but just an offer to help you out as that is my cost, shhhhhhhhhh.

sailskidrive · Feb 23, 2015

Amsoil Signature is a group 5 synthetic; Mobil 1 is a group 4 combo of some sort. Amsoil XL and OEM are some mystery blend and a rip off as you can buy as good oil at Wally World cheaper. I really like their Signature oil but got tired of paying twice the amount for it over Mobile 1 since the oil analysis tests were coming back pretty much the same.

About ten years ago I poured together the remnants of a bottle of German Castrol 0w-30 and a half bottle Mobil 1 10w-30; it will probably last me another twenty years.

Any brand of detergent oil will work just fine, just decide if you want 0, 5, 10, or 20 weight. The second number is meaningless as a gun will never reach an operating temperature or pressure necessary for the viscosity improvers to perform their chemistry magic.

JBinDC · Feb 24, 2015

regulator said:
I use Mobile 1, but recently have been told that atf (automatic transmission fluid) works better. I haven't tried it yet.

ATF is an ingredient in Ed's Red which I use to clean off the Mobil 1 Oil / Mobil Grease / Ballistol combo I use on my guns...

Here's the Ed's Red recipe if yer interested btw - https://nfa.ca/resource-items/eds-red-homebrew-bore-solvent

*NOTE* - this is an old recipe meant for steel and wood gripped guns. So skip the Acetone if yer cleaning any of guise sissy Tupperware guns. :rolleyes:

Maverick0313 · Feb 24, 2015

Boom Boom said:
Advance Auto carries Royal Purple. It's $10/quart there but that should last the average person for years. I think I saw it at the NAPA store near me, too.

You can order it online from Jegs for less than $8/quart with free shipping and handling if your order is $30 or more. I buy it from Jegs by the case and it usually shows up a day or two later.

I agree with you, though. For the average gun, any type of synthetic motor oil should be plenty good enough. Even synthetic blends like Havoline should be good enough.

Thanks.

zombiehunter · Feb 24, 2015

If Mobile 1 could come out of my 400hp 6-banger looking brand new after 15k miles it can go on my guns. Liberal application.

Magnumite · Feb 24, 2015

Out of a low mileage engine fairly clean is okay. Looking brand new its not doing its job, especially after 15,000 miles. HP = wear and contaminants. Those equal darkened oil. Say what one likes, that much mileage between oil changes isn't healthy, even if the oil change monitor says so.

Pinecone · Feb 24, 2015

Boom Boom said:
The Citgo is probably hydrocracked mineral oil (Group III). Group III is not a true synthetic. Mostly just marketing fluff. High-end stuff like Amsoil and Royal Purple are true synthetics consisting of Group IV (PAO) and/or Group V (Esters), with better viscosity index and low volatility compared to non-synthetics. Low volatility is why your bike didn't burn off the Amsoil.

You must hang out on Bobitheoilguy forum.

And how many angles dance on the head of a pin?

And if I get the same molecule at the end of the process, what difference does it make how I got there?

Traveler · Feb 24, 2015

Boom Boom said:
Probably because Mobile 1 changed from Group IV PAO to Group III mineral oil the better part of ten years ago. I change the oil on four vehicles and noticed the difference right away. Instead of draining out thin but dirty, it drained out thicker and reeked just like ordinary, low-rent mineral oil. I switched to Amsoil SSO and then to Royal Purple a couple of years later. I have nothing bad to say about Amsoil SSO.

amoebicmagician · Feb 24, 2015

clandestine said:
The Specialist "Long Term Corrosion Inhibitor" label.

I dont suggest any of it for internals or for moving exterior surfaces. Its just for static externals.

yeah, I won't be making that mistake again. When I was much younger, I bought a remington Woodsmaster 742 for a very good price. The bolt was really stiff, and the barrel appeared to be pitted, so I took her down for cleaning, only to realize the gun had NEVER been cleaned by it's previous owner. Luckily what I thought was pitting in the bore was just hard carbon that had accumulated at the edge of the lands. So I realize that WD-40 works GREAT for getting this hardened carbon off, as well as what I can only describe as some sort of grease/fouling sticky hybrid that was like tar.

So I clean the bore, get it beautiful, clean the gas system and springs, locking lugs, the works, and give everything that had any rust on it a good coat of WD-40, mainly in the gas cylinder where the most corrosion was.

So I shoot her and she shoots GREAT. Way better than when I got her. She is much more accurate, and there are no malfuncitons of any kind or annoyances like a bolt nearly immovable by hand.

So fast forward a year and a half, and the bolt is hard to move again. Not only that, but the gun chokes on every other round.

Take her down and see that the heavy coat of WD-40 in the gas cylinder had congealed into a clumpy paste, and mixed with the carbon foulding, leaving behind something like tar- and then it clicked. This guy had not been cleaning his rifle, he just squirted a crap ton of wd-40 into it whenever there were problems.

that's what the initial tar was, and that's why new wd-40 removed it so well.

So yeah, never on internals again.

Maximum corrosion stopper.

I'm on it.

BTW, how do you feel about a spray of silicone on polymer magazines that aren't working the way they used to?

sxs · Feb 24, 2015

teratos said:
Do you slather it all over your big Johnson?

Ya beat me to it! :lol:

Mobile 1 synthetic??

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