80% poly lowers $50

The #1 community for Gun Owners of the Northeast

Member Benefits:

  • No ad networks!
  • Discuss all aspects of firearm ownership
  • Discuss anti-gun legislation
  • Buy, sell, and trade in the classified section
  • Chat with Local gun shops, ranges, trainers & other businesses
  • Discover free outdoor shooting areas
  • View up to date on firearm-related events
  • Share photos & video with other members
  • ...and so much more!
  • cap6888

    Ultimate Member
    Oct 2, 2011
    2,556
    Howard County
    Me too. The "jig less" claim is not all it's cracked up to be. I think I a going to get a jig, fill the holes with JB Weld, and re drill them. Luckily they were the blemishes, so I wasn't expecting work so of art. Once I get them perfect, I figure I would get them cerakoted, so they look good.
     

    SneakySh0rty

    Active Member
    Aug 22, 2013
    608
    Pasadena
    Ok installed the LPK today. Here is the video, sorry for the bad quality. I do have a question that needs answering. If I dont get any responses here Ill post under the rifle section




    Comments about your vid:

    Blemished units are only suppose to have cosmetic issues, no functional issues. Now what determines hole placement marks as a cosmetic or a function error, not sure. But, mis-aligned holes ive read/watched was a common issue with ep lowers. You are correct though, given the opportunity, pilot holes are the way to go.

    Regardless of an 80% polymer, aluminum 80%, or bought completed lower. Pretty sure that trigger should operate the same across all of them. Before you remove more material, examine the trigger assembly and see any possible points of restrictions causing the trigger to move only part of the way first.

    You talk about being able to throw it around. IMHO, you wont be able to throw it around long with the grip attaches to the lower. The way you did it, any abuse over time, I believe will work it lose or break it. Clean cut threads allow things to be held nicely but also have the ability to be removed or replaced easily. But all is not loss, I wonder if a heli-coil can be used to fix that.

    I watched quite a few reviews of ep lowers. Even with the price, i wouldnt trust running it hard. Here is only of the more recent reviews ive watched.
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pc6FvKDeJgM
     

    jpo183

    Ultimate Member
    Mar 20, 2013
    4,116
    in Maryland
    Comments about your vid:

    Blemished units are only suppose to have cosmetic issues, no functional issues. Now what determines hole placement marks as a cosmetic or a function error, not sure. But, mis-aligned holes ive read/watched was a common issue with ep lowers. You are correct though, given the opportunity, pilot holes are the way to go.

    Regardless of an 80% polymer, aluminum 80%, or bought completed lower. Pretty sure that trigger should operate the same across all of them. Before you remove more material, examine the trigger assembly and see any possible points of restrictions causing the trigger to move only part of the way first.

    You talk about being able to throw it around. IMHO, you wont be able to throw it around long with the grip attaches to the lower. The way you did it, any abuse over time, I believe will work it lose or break it. Clean cut threads allow things to be held nicely but also have the ability to be removed or replaced easily. But all is not loss, I wonder if a heli-coil can be used to fix that.

    I watched quite a few reviews of ep lowers. Even with the price, i wouldnt trust running it hard. Here is only of the more recent reviews ive watched.
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pc6FvKDeJgM


    The FCG is found to be defective, I tried it on 3 different lowers.

    I did unscrew the grip so I could remove the saftey and the threads look really good, we shall see though. That is my main concern, the grip threads. Everything else feels good and strong.



    As far as the hole drilling process. I removed the insides first then drilled the holes. It doesn't matter either way, my suggestion if this were pre 10/1 would be to simply drill one side of the holes first, dry fit, then drill the rest (as well as use pilot holes for alignment)

    The lack of a jig is not that big a deal IMO. I do not think the jig would matter with the exception of the hole placement.
     

    FrankOceanXray

    Ultimate Member
    Oct 29, 2008
    12,036
    I think the order of operations does matter. Drilling into a solid piece should help prevent the bit from walking? That the hole lines up...?
     

    SneakySh0rty

    Active Member
    Aug 22, 2013
    608
    Pasadena
    I think the order of operations does matter. Drilling into a solid piece should help prevent the bit from walking? That the hole lines up...?

    I can see your rationale. But in this case, IMHO, drill the pocket first. Less material for the bit to go through when doing the holes, less chance of bit drifting. I suggest pilot holes on each side and inspect they line up. If not atleast then you can adjust and not worry about having larger than necessary holes.

    Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
     

    jpo183

    Ultimate Member
    Mar 20, 2013
    4,116
    in Maryland
    I can see your rationale. But in this case, IMHO, drill the pocket first. Less material for the bit to go through when doing the holes, less chance of bit drifting. I suggest pilot holes on each side and inspect they line up. If not atleast then you can adjust and not worry about having larger than necessary holes.

    Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

    This. Spot on.
     

    my69rox

    Active Member
    Jan 17, 2013
    248
    Westminster MD / Hanover PA
    had to buy one to try, I work at an auto shop so had air tools and a lot of other tools to make easyer. Took me 4 hrs with doing my other work also. Yes the trigger and hammer holes are a pain , TAKE YOUR TIME !!!!! Think 6 times then cut or drill in this case ... lol If you screw up fill with plastic weld, let dry, drill again correct. I also would put KNS or what every pins in so hold better and will help keep true. I made mine for a CMMG 22 kit that I still need if anyone has one cheap . I feel if you wanna have some fun and understand the AR platform a little better , it is a nice project. I feel good about mine , I know it is not perfect BUT I spent 50 bucks and had a few hrs. in labor and now have a workable lower that I feel good about.
     
    Last edited:

    DeadeyeJack

    Supporter of Freedom
    Sep 13, 2009
    1,227
    Dixie
    I also would put KNS or what every pins in so hold better and will help keep true.

    I don't understand what you are trying to communicate here, but it sounds like something I would like to know, as you were successful in your build and have some good advice to share. Please give a bit more detail.
     

    Users who are viewing this thread

    Latest posts

    Forum statistics

    Threads
    275,374
    Messages
    7,279,233
    Members
    33,442
    Latest member
    PotomacRiver

    Latest threads

    Top Bottom