Traditions flintlock pistol kit

Melnic · Jul 31, 2015

I got in a Pirate pistol kit.
Its flintlock.
I have an English Flint for it and looking for tips or links to setting up the flint for a good spark.
I'm hoping I don't have to go through great lengths to buy more tools to make this happen.
I have the wood stained and applied some oil to it. Wood quality of course is not that great for this kit but just want something to fire.
I have 3F powder to use for it and already have .490 balls and pre-lubed patches I'll be using. I don't think I need a tight fitting ball for a pistol. Just something easy to load.
I hope to have it put together this weekend and do some test firing with just powder in the pan and no powder down the tube.

iH8DemLibz · Jul 31, 2015

Use a thin piece of leather to hold the flint in the cock jaws.

Make sure the flint is square with the face of the frizzen.

There should be a taper/angle on the flint.

It should face upward.

Use acetone and clean all of the oil off of the face of the frizzen.

Arrrr you posting pics?

jhcrab · Jul 31, 2015

I shot flintlock rifles a while back; used 4F in flash pan and 2 or 3 F to propel lead balls. Takes some time to get used to holding on target waiting for the second ignition.

iH8DemLibz · Jul 31, 2015

+1 on the 4F in the pan.

Mobetta ignition.

Blacksmith101 · Jul 31, 2015

This has some good tips:
http://home.insightbb.com/~bspen/flintlockfaq.html

Click on View 3, 4, and 5 for how to pick the proper size flint and install it:
http://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categories/PartDetail.aspx/179/1/FLINTS

And don't put to much powder in the pan, more than needed works worse. The powder should be even with the touch hole not covering it up. The flame from the flash of the powder will shoot through the touch hole to lite the charge. You don't want to fill the touch hole with powder or it will burn like a fuze and give you a slow lock time.

epps1919 · Jul 31, 2015

And don't put to much powder in the pan, more than needed works worse. The powder should be even with the touch hole not covering it up. The flame from the flash of the powder will shoot through the touch hole to lite the charge. You don't want to fill the touch hole with powder or it will burn like a fuze and give you a slow lock time.[/QUOTE]

A properly loaded flint lock wont have any delay in firing

Melnic · Jul 31, 2015

Thx fellas
I still have to drill the holes for the pins

iH8DemLibz · Aug 1, 2015

A little ignition trick.

The touch hole in your barrel is probably just a holed drill though the side. Same diameter from outside to inside.

Use a center drill and flare the hole so it is wider on the outside. This will allow more powder to enter the side of the barrel.

Don't enlarge the hole going into the bore. Just taper it.

Blacksmith101 · Aug 1, 2015

iH8DemLibz said:
A little ignition trick.

The touch hole in your barrel is probably just a holed drill though the side. Same diameter from outside to inside.

Use a center drill and flare the hole so it is wider on the outside. This will allow more powder to enter the side of the barrel.

Don't enlarge the hole going into the bore. Just taper it.

View attachment 155729

Most sources recommend coning vents from the bore side rather than the outside either with special tools or using vent liners which have the cone on the inside. Jim Chambers' "White Lightning" liners are made this way. Very few originals were tapered from the outside however some were coned from the inside.

Melnic · Aug 1, 2015

The hole on this one is tapered on the outside Got it pinned and ready to try. I tested the flint with 3f in the pan. Don't have any 4f Here are some screen shots from vid

j8064 · Aug 1, 2015

THAT looks like FUN, Melnic! :thumbsup:

Somehow I must get the stuff I need to fire my flintlock too! I keep telling myself that!

Threeband · Aug 1, 2015

Damn, now I need a flinchlock.

"Yankee Doodle went to Boston
For to buy a firelock.
We will tar and feather him
And so we will John Hancock."

Art3 · Aug 2, 2015

Threeband said:
Damn, now I need a flinchlock.

Funny you should call it that. I'm still pretty new to flintlocks, but my one rifle that has some ignition issues has been a great flinch tool. Never knowing whether I'll get a boom or a clunk really forces me to be steady and wait for every shot to break.

Art3 · Aug 2, 2015

Melnic said:
The hole on this one is tapered on the outside Got it pinned and ready to try. I tested the flint with 3f in the pan. Don't have any 4f Here are some screen shots from vid

Nice! When I shot my flintlocks for the very first time, I didn't use a projectile, just powder and a wad of paper. I figured if I couldn't get it to go off, it would be a lot easier to clear than a patched ball. So far it hasn't been necessary, but it still seems like a good plan.

Melnic · Aug 2, 2015

Took to range today
I did not have much time so just got 3 shots out of it.
One misfire
Pan did not flash. Sparks were not hitting down enough. I think my flint was hitting too high. I set flint back some and tested the spark and I think it was hitting pan better

Melnic · Aug 3, 2015

Videos

Flash in the pan video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0QSOgT8GEDc

Melnic · Aug 5, 2015

So, I need to get better at making a consistent spark.
I can reset the flint then test at home say a dozen times, then after a few shots at the range, I have to reset the flint.
I"m going to switch to flat lead to hold the flint first.
I had a few misfires at the range this morning. Did not spark till I reset the flint.
I have yet to adjust the sites too.

[YT]tX99LRueVjQ[/YT]

Melnic · Aug 5, 2015

here is a vid my dad did a good job of editing:
He missed the measuring and pouring of powder (20grains 3F)
[YT]nnArx7dxT9g[/YT]

Blacksmith101 · Aug 5, 2015

Melnic said:
So, I need to get better at making a consistent spark.
I can reset the flint then test at home say a dozen times, then after a few shots at the range, I have to reset the flint.
I"m going to switch to flat lead to hold the flint first.
I had a few misfires at the range this morning. Did not spark till I reset the flint.
I have yet to adjust the sites too.

[YT]tX99LRueVjQ[/YT]

Flints have a limited number of strikes before they must be tweeked or knapped. They also have a limit on useful life, That's why armies carried barrels of spare flints with them.
Also the frizzen will take a limited number of strikes before the surface is worn to the point the frizzen must be either replaced, heat treated, or resurfaced.

Try limiting your tests to one or two before going to the range.

The flintlock is not a high volume of fire weapons system. In a typical battle they might get off 3 shots before they were close enough to have at it with bayonets and swords.

I'll bet you get noticed at the range and have people asking questions.

eruby · Aug 5, 2015

iH8DemLibz said:
Use a thin piece of leather to hold the flint in the cock jaws.

Make sure the flint is square with the face of the frizzen.

There should be a taper/angle on the flint.

It should face upward.

Use acetone and clean all of the oil off of the face of the frizzen.

Arrrr you posting pics?

I see what you did there.

Nice piece Melnic. :thumbsup:

Traditions flintlock pistol kit

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