Reloading the .50 Beowulf.

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  • Topher

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Sep 8, 2008
    4,818
    Fredneck
    Wow... I just shoot the wimpy 335 grain bullets. I am going to have to make some changes if I want to keep my Beowulf man card.
     

    BradMacc82

    Ultimate Member
    Industry Partner
    Aug 17, 2011
    26,177
    Wow... I just shoot the wimpy 335 grain bullets. I am going to have to make some changes if I want to keep my Beowulf man card.

    Don't feel like you have to compete.

    There's guy's out there casting 700+gr slugs for the Beowulf. 530gr steel-tips are plenty enough for me. :)

    Just had another half case of the 335gr HP's delivered the other day. Got a batch of brass that's coming up on their 8th loading, so I figured it's time to get some fresh brass into the mix.
     

    BradMacc82

    Ultimate Member
    Industry Partner
    Aug 17, 2011
    26,177

    Pinecone

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Feb 4, 2013
    28,175
    Also Lyman, Lee, and Hornady. And Whidden for the higher end, precision stuff.

    To me, get the ones that are easiest to find.
     

    Roadhawg

    Bee Farmer
    Jul 18, 2014
    622
    Free America
    I personally stick with the rounds listed thru A.A.'s data, and loading to their specs, haven't had any issues yet.

    But be forewarned, A.A.'s listed Max charges, can be really hard on the brass.

    I stick with the A.A. data as well and their minimum charge works just fine.
     

    BradMacc82

    Ultimate Member
    Industry Partner
    Aug 17, 2011
    26,177
    I've never seen anything but the Lee's.

    Hornady had them for a brief period, but now I think they either discontinued or they have to be custom ordered.

    Right now, Lee is the only available option unless you really want to pay out the ass.
     

    Traveler

    Lighten up Francis
    Jan 18, 2013
    8,227
    AA County
    For a couple years now, I've been resizing .50 Beowulf Brass with Lee dies. If you use enough lube (not too much or it will ripple the brass), bring it up half way, rotate the brass 90 degrees, and bring up the ram a second time, put some muscle behind it, and hope for the best, you should have a resized piece of brass. As the dies broke in, it got a *little* better, but was still a time-consuming choir.

    I finally picked up a set of Redding dies for the Beowulf, and all I can say is, :party29:"Wow!! What a difference!!":party29:

    I resized 800 pieces of brass in the time it would have taken me to resize 200 before, and only needed lube every other case.

    For anyone else reloading for the Beowulf, do yourself a favor: toss those Lee dies into the bay and pick up the Redding dies. You won't regret it.

    .
     

    Roadhawg

    Bee Farmer
    Jul 18, 2014
    622
    Free America
    I am still using the Lee Beowulf die set and this is was very help info:

    I've been resizing .50 Beowulf Brass with Lee dies. If you use enough lube (not too much or it will ripple the brass), bring it up half way, rotate the brass 90 degrees, and bring up the ram a second time, put some muscle behind it, and hope for the best, you should have a resized piece of brass.

    In the past I never rotated the brass and usually lost a case or two or more.
    Today I used this method to resized 100 pieces of Beowulf brass and I did not lose a single soldier.
     

    BradMacc82

    Ultimate Member
    Industry Partner
    Aug 17, 2011
    26,177
    Haven't had that issue with the Lee's myself. I have had 2 that got so stuck I just replaced the die, but on the resizing I use a generous (not excessive) coating of lube and they resize/decap just fine for me.
     

    Roadhawg

    Bee Farmer
    Jul 18, 2014
    622
    Free America
    Haven't had that issue with the Lee's myself. I have had 2 that got so stuck I just replaced the die, but on the resizing I use a generous (not excessive) coating of lube and they resize/decap just fine for me.

    I have had several stuck cases, but I have been lucky and was able to remove them. I removed the decapping rod and nut, then I used BFH and a 1/4 inch extension to drive the case out.
     

    BradMacc82

    Ultimate Member
    Industry Partner
    Aug 17, 2011
    26,177
    I have had several stuck cases, but I have been lucky and was able to remove them. I removed the decapping rod and nut, then I used BFH and a 1/4 inch extension to drive the case out.

    I tried every trick in the book for the 2 I had.

    Those sumbitches were fused solid to the die. Was frustrating as hell, but such is the nature of the beast.
     

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